Looking for something interesting, beautiful and low cost to collect, then try antique insulators. Insulators have been used ever since Samuel Morse transmitted the first telegraph message over a short telegraph line along a railroad between Washington, D.C. and Baltimore, MD in 1844. Glass insulators were first manufactured in the 1850s for use with telegraph lines that were rapidly expanding across America. In the 1920s electricity and telephone signals moved over open copper wire. At each pole glass insulators were used starting this popular hobby of insulator collecting.
Insulators come in many sizes, shapes and colors. They were made of many different types materials including rubber, porcelain, pottery, glass, composition, fiberglass, metal, wood and mica. Glass and porcelain insulators are extensively collected by manufacturer and color.
Glass insulators are usually found marked with a manufacturer or users name embossed on the insulator such as Hemingray No.9. made by the Hemingray Glass Company that was located in Muncie, Indiana. The American Telephone and Telegraph Co. embossed their insulators with AM TEL & TEL Co. Most insulators were marked on their crown or skirt. Armstrong's, Brookfield, California, Diamond, Dominion, Hemingray, Kerr, Lynchburg, Maydwell, NEGM and Whitall Tatum are some of the more common names found on glass insulators.
There are a wide variety of insulators made of porcelain, ceramic, stoneware and other related materials. Collectors primarily focus on pin-types and insulators used on early radio receiver antennas. Manufacturer names to look for are Cook, Jobson Bros., Johns-Manville, Fred M Locke, New Westminster and Varley.
You can determine the age of an antique insulator by looking for any marking stamped or embossed on its surface. Sometimes the approximate age can be determined by a patent date on the insulator. The last glass insulator manufacturer in the United States was Kerr, located in Millville, NJ. Kerr stopped producing insulators in 1979. Value is determined by many factors such as condition, manufacturer, quantity made, color, age and demand by collectors. The best place to buy antique insulators is eBay.
Glyn Farber has published a catalog of all known Hickey Brother Cigar Store Tokens and co-authored a book about Louisiana Trade Tokens. In addition he wrote several articles for The Token and Medal Society (TAMS) and The National Token Collectors Association (NTCA). Glyn has been a devoted collector of Louisiana Trade Tokens, Louisiana collectibles and Lake Charles, LA postcards for almost 40 years.
Find out more information about Antique Insulators and tokens at his web sites
http://www.most-popular-collectibles-at-auction.com and
http://www.louisiana-trade-tokens.com
Joing Online Antique Forums
For you antique collectors out there, it is time for you to take advantage of your internet services by joining different antique collection forums that will take your hobby to a whole new level. The internet provides you with forums focused on your particular type of antique collection. Joining in will give you the benefits of being able to communicate with other collectors and share insights, tips and opinions. You can actually gain friends from all over the world who share the same interests as you. The forum services are usually free. There are forums for practically any kind of antique collection. Separate forums can be found that deal with coins, dolls, old bottles, clocks, books, fabrics, marbles, porcelain, pottery, records, silver, etc. You name it, they have it all. Learning the history of your collection can be an adventure. It will give you an even-deeper love for the items you have already gathered. It is knowing the story behind each item. Forums can give you information on this. Believe it or not, many collectors are doing the same thing, and they may know more about your items than you do, so it would be great to get to know them. Forums also deal with the identification, dating, maintenance, displaying and finding collectible items. You may also find that there are activities on antique collections that you may want to attend like antique shows, auctions and even sales. You may also want to share what you know by posting pictures of your collection and contributing your views and tips in the different forum sections. You may also find other websites that link to your common interest. You can share all these things with the others, your expert knowledge may be just what they need. Forums can also provide a venue for you to tell your unique stories on your finds. Surprisingly, other enthusiasts will find your stories on how you found those rare items very interesting. Dedication in antique collections can be found among fellow collectors. Joining a forum may find you a home that will give a heart to your collection. You can share everything with others of the same interest. The most knowledgeable collectors are oftentimes members of forums such as these. Their wide-range collection can be a feast to your eyes and soul. The years of experience of seasoned collectors will naturally rub off on the novice, deepening the passion for collection.
Visit the About Animals website to learn about bot fly and how to get rid of fruit flies.
An Antique Perfume Bottle is a Much Treasured Possession
The numbers of diverse types of perfumes is quite huge which means that It is necessary to have at least those many different perfume bottles as well. Basically, these bottles function to appeal to the customer into buying the perfume and as a result have got to be pleasant and sure to catch the eye; so, it really should not shock everybody that perfume bottling business is enormous and amongst the many manufacturers of such bottles, the label of Pochet SA that is a French company stands out.
Pochet SA Is The Most Famous Bottle Maker
If you have yet bought a bottle of Givenchy, Coty, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Calvin Klein or some other equally famous brand of perfume, odds are that the perfume bottle has been made by Pochet which nowadays is a company which descended from Verreries du Courval and also Pochet DeRoche that both have many years of experience in making glass and pottery items. In fact, the initial perfume bottle that contained designer perfume that was commissioned by Empress Eugenie in the year 1858 and was the production of Verreries du Courval.
The way of making a perfume bottle altered and during the thirties they began to be made by machine and most of the inspiration for such bottles seemed to come from Hollywood, while a company named Lalique that was subsequently bought by Pochet had an outstanding bottle that contained the 1932 classic fragrance named Je Reviens that basically resembled a skyscraper from New York and the whole thing came in a package in a chrome finished box.
One more interesting feature of the perfume bottle is that long after the odor has been used up and the fragrances are gone, the bottles, especially those from past days are items that are treasured even more than the scents that Was inside many years ago. In fact, if you are fortunate enough to own an antique perfume bottle, you could well be the owner of a minor treasure that will Get a good price and which is much sought after by bottle collectors.
So, the next time you go overseas makes sure to check out the many antique shops that may have an antique perfume bottle for you to purchase. However, that is easier said than done as many of these bottles have an asking price in thousands of dollars, and so before you acquire one of these bottles, you should not spend on something that is not to your liking, and if you must gather these bottles, do so with those that You like so that you can get pleasure from them for many more years to come.
You can even get hold of antique perfume bottles in places other than antique shops, and fine places to Find them include estate and yard sales, flea markets and also thrift stores as well as Internet auctions.
Pochet SA Is The Most Famous Bottle Maker
If you have yet bought a bottle of Givenchy, Coty, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Calvin Klein or some other equally famous brand of perfume, odds are that the perfume bottle has been made by Pochet which nowadays is a company which descended from Verreries du Courval and also Pochet DeRoche that both have many years of experience in making glass and pottery items. In fact, the initial perfume bottle that contained designer perfume that was commissioned by Empress Eugenie in the year 1858 and was the production of Verreries du Courval.
The way of making a perfume bottle altered and during the thirties they began to be made by machine and most of the inspiration for such bottles seemed to come from Hollywood, while a company named Lalique that was subsequently bought by Pochet had an outstanding bottle that contained the 1932 classic fragrance named Je Reviens that basically resembled a skyscraper from New York and the whole thing came in a package in a chrome finished box.
One more interesting feature of the perfume bottle is that long after the odor has been used up and the fragrances are gone, the bottles, especially those from past days are items that are treasured even more than the scents that Was inside many years ago. In fact, if you are fortunate enough to own an antique perfume bottle, you could well be the owner of a minor treasure that will Get a good price and which is much sought after by bottle collectors.
So, the next time you go overseas makes sure to check out the many antique shops that may have an antique perfume bottle for you to purchase. However, that is easier said than done as many of these bottles have an asking price in thousands of dollars, and so before you acquire one of these bottles, you should not spend on something that is not to your liking, and if you must gather these bottles, do so with those that You like so that you can get pleasure from them for many more years to come.
You can even get hold of antique perfume bottles in places other than antique shops, and fine places to Find them include estate and yard sales, flea markets and also thrift stores as well as Internet auctions.
There are more information on perfume and you can discover those information in great details in http://www.bestdiscountperfume.com
Antiques - Business Idea of the Month
Antique dealing is always a friendly business, with endless
opportunities to learn something new, great prospects and always
that golden dream of hitting the jackpot. This month I will look
at the structure of the antiques game, and give some advice on
the smarter ways to set up.
Every city and most towns in the land, have established traders
mostly making quite a decent living in the antiques business.
The Skills Required In order to know what any given object is
worth to a dealer, or a private collector, you need very good
knowledge of that area, and the ability to check out the details
before you buy.
Many dealers develop an "eye" for quality and sales appea, and
buy all kinds of goods, thriving on variety. This can be a big
disadvantage.
In my view, specializing always pays off in the long run.
Firstly, you can get a reputation as an expert in just a few
years, and secondly, you can "plug in" to your own little
network of suppliers, dealers, collectors and speciality
auctions. Thirdly, you will quickly learn where to go for
research.
The largest sectors of the trade, deal in furniture, fine art
(paintings and prints) and ceramics (pottery and porcelain).
Competition is fierce, and you really must know your stuff if
you want to avoid buying stock which nobody else wants, for some
good but unobvious reason.
Other smaller sectors include the horologists (clocks and
watches), silverware dealers, jewellers, glassware dealers and
the sale of early weapons, armour or guns. In recent years,
oriental carpets have had a great revival, and have joined the
ranks of firmly established specialities.
Then there are the mini-specialities, all of them competitive
areas in their own right: dolls and nursery furnishings; pipes
and smokers' requisites; old postcards and greetings cards;
buttons; small wooden articles of every description, old
mechanical items from musical boxes to balance scales; lace and
early clothing. War items are also in great demand.
WINNERS AND LOSERS The antique trade is run on very informal
lines but it's organized into armies, in which all the dealers
are highly independent mercenaries. Here are some guidelines to
help you use the system:
* COLLECTOR/DEALERS All dealers tend to hoard some of their best
finds, but the dedicated collectors are compulsively hooked into
a particular area. They usually work from home, buying their
stocks by placing small ads in local papers, and attending house
clearance sales, or auction rooms.
A collector/dealer will be very tight with his or her money, and
know the precise value of anything they want to buy. If you get
to know local characters and seriously want to sell items to
them, you need to equip yourself with as many good sale room
catalogues as possible, so you know the value of everything you
sell to them.
* EXHIBITORS Other dealers plan their year's trading around the
top-class antiques fairs and tradeshows. The more valuable their
stock, the fewer sales they need to make in a year to make a
good profit. Some run shops which only open one or two days a
week. Finding top-quality stock is very time-consuming, so they
all depend to some extent on runners (see below).
* ANTIQUE SHOPS In the larger towns there's a large array of
shop-based businesses. But remember, you're talking about larger
overheads, for the shop, heating, lighting, security, theft and
fire insurance and an assistant to hold the fort while you're
away on buying expeditions. For this reason I do not recommend
you to rush into shop premises until you've had a few years'
thorough grounding, but it is an attractive option for future
expansion.
* MARKET TRADERS There are a great many indoor markets opening
up, and can be very prestigious affairs indeed. Other mixed
markets (indoor and outdoor stalls) may look very cheerful and
picturesque, but the best dealers there, are equal to anyone in
the country. Easier to set up, usually with a local licence.
Everyone in the antiques business is very careful about buying
from strangers because of the sheer volume of stolen goods on
the market. When you're buying you must be prepared to insist on
a name, address, some form of identification and a signed
declaration to the effect that the item is the seller's
property. If you want to sell to shops and stall-holders you
must be prepared to give this information as a matter of course.
* RUNNERS These are agents, who on behalf of shop owners, go out
buying on their behalf. The knack of success is to buy stock at
very competitive prices so that the dealers will give you a good
profit buying at your "trade price", and still make a good
profit themselves. One good way to start up is to combine
dealing from home with "running", but only if you're prepared to
be always out on the road hunting. Buying is definitely the
hardest area of the antiques business, and the runners thrive on
the challenge. They build up a small network of dealers and get
to know their tastes intimately
* RESTORERS The entire antiques trade relies crucially on
skilled craftsmen and women to repair and restore items, either
at public request, or to enhance the value of recently acquired
stock. There are some very good businesses around based on
picture restoration, clock or porcelain repair etc. In the
furniture trade alone there are polishers, veneerers, turners,
joiners, rush and cane workers, and carvers.
WAYS TO START UP
You can set yourself up as a dealer working from home, and go on
to be a runner for other dealers. So long as you're careful to
read up on the stocks you handle, and allow for all your
travelling expenses, there's a good living to be made. Always
plough back your profits into better and larger stocks.
Restoration is another good way to acquire knowledge, and to
cater for a strong market demand. For the young it can be a good
stepping-stone to becoming a successful specialist dealer. For
the over50s it will provide a good standard of living, but not a
business you can sell off on retirement, except to people you've
trained or other restorers with the same skills. There is a
third way, and that is to work as an assistant to an established
dealer with a shop. You don't get much pay, but you have great
opportunities to learn the trade, and develop your own selling
style with the customers.
Dealers won't allow assistants to buy on their behalf, but you
may have a chance to go alone to the auction rooms, to view
items and report back, or you may be given research work to do
in the local library. After a period of time, you can normally
arrange to sell some of your own stock in the shop, and build up
your own sales until you are ready to go it alone.
At this stage, I have not talked about the auction houses
online, but they can be another avenue, where you can start up
small, and learn the trade, before moving onto bigger things.
opportunities to learn something new, great prospects and always
that golden dream of hitting the jackpot. This month I will look
at the structure of the antiques game, and give some advice on
the smarter ways to set up.
Every city and most towns in the land, have established traders
mostly making quite a decent living in the antiques business.
The Skills Required In order to know what any given object is
worth to a dealer, or a private collector, you need very good
knowledge of that area, and the ability to check out the details
before you buy.
Many dealers develop an "eye" for quality and sales appea, and
buy all kinds of goods, thriving on variety. This can be a big
disadvantage.
In my view, specializing always pays off in the long run.
Firstly, you can get a reputation as an expert in just a few
years, and secondly, you can "plug in" to your own little
network of suppliers, dealers, collectors and speciality
auctions. Thirdly, you will quickly learn where to go for
research.
The largest sectors of the trade, deal in furniture, fine art
(paintings and prints) and ceramics (pottery and porcelain).
Competition is fierce, and you really must know your stuff if
you want to avoid buying stock which nobody else wants, for some
good but unobvious reason.
Other smaller sectors include the horologists (clocks and
watches), silverware dealers, jewellers, glassware dealers and
the sale of early weapons, armour or guns. In recent years,
oriental carpets have had a great revival, and have joined the
ranks of firmly established specialities.
Then there are the mini-specialities, all of them competitive
areas in their own right: dolls and nursery furnishings; pipes
and smokers' requisites; old postcards and greetings cards;
buttons; small wooden articles of every description, old
mechanical items from musical boxes to balance scales; lace and
early clothing. War items are also in great demand.
WINNERS AND LOSERS The antique trade is run on very informal
lines but it's organized into armies, in which all the dealers
are highly independent mercenaries. Here are some guidelines to
help you use the system:
* COLLECTOR/DEALERS All dealers tend to hoard some of their best
finds, but the dedicated collectors are compulsively hooked into
a particular area. They usually work from home, buying their
stocks by placing small ads in local papers, and attending house
clearance sales, or auction rooms.
A collector/dealer will be very tight with his or her money, and
know the precise value of anything they want to buy. If you get
to know local characters and seriously want to sell items to
them, you need to equip yourself with as many good sale room
catalogues as possible, so you know the value of everything you
sell to them.
* EXHIBITORS Other dealers plan their year's trading around the
top-class antiques fairs and tradeshows. The more valuable their
stock, the fewer sales they need to make in a year to make a
good profit. Some run shops which only open one or two days a
week. Finding top-quality stock is very time-consuming, so they
all depend to some extent on runners (see below).
* ANTIQUE SHOPS In the larger towns there's a large array of
shop-based businesses. But remember, you're talking about larger
overheads, for the shop, heating, lighting, security, theft and
fire insurance and an assistant to hold the fort while you're
away on buying expeditions. For this reason I do not recommend
you to rush into shop premises until you've had a few years'
thorough grounding, but it is an attractive option for future
expansion.
* MARKET TRADERS There are a great many indoor markets opening
up, and can be very prestigious affairs indeed. Other mixed
markets (indoor and outdoor stalls) may look very cheerful and
picturesque, but the best dealers there, are equal to anyone in
the country. Easier to set up, usually with a local licence.
Everyone in the antiques business is very careful about buying
from strangers because of the sheer volume of stolen goods on
the market. When you're buying you must be prepared to insist on
a name, address, some form of identification and a signed
declaration to the effect that the item is the seller's
property. If you want to sell to shops and stall-holders you
must be prepared to give this information as a matter of course.
* RUNNERS These are agents, who on behalf of shop owners, go out
buying on their behalf. The knack of success is to buy stock at
very competitive prices so that the dealers will give you a good
profit buying at your "trade price", and still make a good
profit themselves. One good way to start up is to combine
dealing from home with "running", but only if you're prepared to
be always out on the road hunting. Buying is definitely the
hardest area of the antiques business, and the runners thrive on
the challenge. They build up a small network of dealers and get
to know their tastes intimately
* RESTORERS The entire antiques trade relies crucially on
skilled craftsmen and women to repair and restore items, either
at public request, or to enhance the value of recently acquired
stock. There are some very good businesses around based on
picture restoration, clock or porcelain repair etc. In the
furniture trade alone there are polishers, veneerers, turners,
joiners, rush and cane workers, and carvers.
WAYS TO START UP
You can set yourself up as a dealer working from home, and go on
to be a runner for other dealers. So long as you're careful to
read up on the stocks you handle, and allow for all your
travelling expenses, there's a good living to be made. Always
plough back your profits into better and larger stocks.
Restoration is another good way to acquire knowledge, and to
cater for a strong market demand. For the young it can be a good
stepping-stone to becoming a successful specialist dealer. For
the over50s it will provide a good standard of living, but not a
business you can sell off on retirement, except to people you've
trained or other restorers with the same skills. There is a
third way, and that is to work as an assistant to an established
dealer with a shop. You don't get much pay, but you have great
opportunities to learn the trade, and develop your own selling
style with the customers.
Dealers won't allow assistants to buy on their behalf, but you
may have a chance to go alone to the auction rooms, to view
items and report back, or you may be given research work to do
in the local library. After a period of time, you can normally
arrange to sell some of your own stock in the shop, and build up
your own sales until you are ready to go it alone.
At this stage, I have not talked about the auction houses
online, but they can be another avenue, where you can start up
small, and learn the trade, before moving onto bigger things.
Taking Care Of Your Antiques
Have you just started collecting antiques or have you been given some beautiful heirlooms and haven't a clue how to care of them?
Antiques can be a wonderful reminder of our family, history or even an exotic touch from another place and time. Caring for these special items makes sure they can be passed down to another generation or sold at the greatest value.
Sites such as the BBC and Antiques-UK provide all kinds of information on caring for antiques. If you are in doubt contact a professional conservator. Following will provide further help in caring for your antiques.
With glass, pottery and porcelain, avoid extremes and handle carefully. Wash individually in a padded washing basin to prevent chips. Use warm water - never hot or cold - and a gentle cleanser with a soft bristled brush. Don't ever put antique glasses or dishes in the dishwasher. The extreme heat and harsh detergent can be harmful. Carefully wipe glasses dry and allow dishes to air dry. Liquids left in glassware can stain so avoid leaving cut flowers for example in contact with the glass if the water starts to turn or the leaves start to dry out.
Store or display glass and dishes in a safe place. Avoid displaying on an open shelf, rail or on the wall if your home is subject to vibrations from nearby trains or is busy with people passing by.
Both rugs and textiles require very gentle handling when moving, storing or cleaning. Moving should be done slowly and carefully as antique fabrics are delicate and can easily tear or pull apart. Rugs should be rolled with the pile facing outwards to prevent crushing or damage. Garments should be hung on sturdy hangers and covered in white cotton or rolled with acid free paper and tied closed on either end. Rugs and textiles can be cleaned gently with a vacuum on a low setting. Be very careful with textiles as the suction can pull fibers apart. For spills it is recommended by BBC antiques to put white paper towels under the rug and above, replacing them until no more liquid comes out. Any other cleaning should be done by an expert. Avoid exposure to sun or humidity.
Dusting of furniture should be done with a soft, lint-free cloth and wooden furniture only waxed with quality beeswax. Avoid placing furnishings in bright light or in rooms which have great changes in temperature or humidity. When moving antique furniture, always lift and never drag.
Antiques have a wow factor with most everyone, so proper care will help your investment increase in value or enable you to pass them on for the enjoyment of your family.
Antiques can be a wonderful reminder of our family, history or even an exotic touch from another place and time. Caring for these special items makes sure they can be passed down to another generation or sold at the greatest value.
Sites such as the BBC and Antiques-UK provide all kinds of information on caring for antiques. If you are in doubt contact a professional conservator. Following will provide further help in caring for your antiques.
With glass, pottery and porcelain, avoid extremes and handle carefully. Wash individually in a padded washing basin to prevent chips. Use warm water - never hot or cold - and a gentle cleanser with a soft bristled brush. Don't ever put antique glasses or dishes in the dishwasher. The extreme heat and harsh detergent can be harmful. Carefully wipe glasses dry and allow dishes to air dry. Liquids left in glassware can stain so avoid leaving cut flowers for example in contact with the glass if the water starts to turn or the leaves start to dry out.
Store or display glass and dishes in a safe place. Avoid displaying on an open shelf, rail or on the wall if your home is subject to vibrations from nearby trains or is busy with people passing by.
Both rugs and textiles require very gentle handling when moving, storing or cleaning. Moving should be done slowly and carefully as antique fabrics are delicate and can easily tear or pull apart. Rugs should be rolled with the pile facing outwards to prevent crushing or damage. Garments should be hung on sturdy hangers and covered in white cotton or rolled with acid free paper and tied closed on either end. Rugs and textiles can be cleaned gently with a vacuum on a low setting. Be very careful with textiles as the suction can pull fibers apart. For spills it is recommended by BBC antiques to put white paper towels under the rug and above, replacing them until no more liquid comes out. Any other cleaning should be done by an expert. Avoid exposure to sun or humidity.
Dusting of furniture should be done with a soft, lint-free cloth and wooden furniture only waxed with quality beeswax. Avoid placing furnishings in bright light or in rooms which have great changes in temperature or humidity. When moving antique furniture, always lift and never drag.
Antiques have a wow factor with most everyone, so proper care will help your investment increase in value or enable you to pass them on for the enjoyment of your family.
Taking Care Of Your Vintage And Antique Collectibles
Antiques can be a great reminder of our family, history, or even an exotic touch from another place and time. Caring for these items properly ensures that they can be passed down to another generation or sold for their highest value.
The following is a brief overview of caring for your vintage and antique collectibles. Sites such as the BBC and Antiques-UK provide detailed information on caring for various antiques. If you are in doubt you can contact a professional conservator that specializes in your type of antique.
PAPER:
Paper needs to be stored properly to preserve its value. Use acid-free and archival quality storage.
If you have a book that needs to be cleaned, use air to blow off dust and particles. Never wipe a book with a rag.
Don't store books and papers in sunlight - it will cause fading.
GLASS, POTTERY and PORCELAIN:
Wash individually in a padded washing basin to prevent chips. Use warm water - never hot or cold - and a gentle cleanser with a soft bristled brush. Never wash antique glass or dishes in the dishwasher since the extreme heat and harsh detergent may be harmful. Gently wipe glasses dry or allow dishes to air dry.
Store and display glass and dishes in a safe place away from heavy traffic. Avoid displaying on an open shelf, rail or on the wall, especially if there is heavy traffic through that area.
RUGS and TEXTILES:
Rugs and textiles require extremely gentle handling when moving, storing and cleaning.
Moving should be done slowly and carefully as antique fabrics are delicate and can easily tear or pull apart.
Rugs should be rolled with the pile facing outwards to prevent crushing or damage.
Garments should be hung on sturdy hangers and covered in white cotton or rolled with acid free paper and tied closed on either end.
Rugs and textiles can be cleaned gently with a vacuum on a low setting. Be very careful with textiles as the suction can pull fibers apart. For spills it is recommended by BBC Antiques to put white paper towels under the rug and above, replacing them until no more liquid comes out. Any other cleaning should be done by an expert. Avoid exposure to sun or humidity.
FURNITURE:
Dusting should be done with a soft, lint-free cloth. Wood furniture should only be waxed with quality beeswax. Avoid placing furnishings in bright light or in rooms which experience great changes in temperature or humidity. Be very cautious when moving antique furniture, always lifting and never dragging.
JEWELRY:
Clean with a soft brush, like a makeup brush, to remove dust. Next use windex, or other window type cleaner, and a very soft toothbrush to polish and clean. Do not use soap, or harsh abrasive.
It is a great privilege to own antiques and proper care will help your investment increase in value or enable you to pass them on for the enjoyment of your family.
The following is a brief overview of caring for your vintage and antique collectibles. Sites such as the BBC and Antiques-UK provide detailed information on caring for various antiques. If you are in doubt you can contact a professional conservator that specializes in your type of antique.
PAPER:
Paper needs to be stored properly to preserve its value. Use acid-free and archival quality storage.
If you have a book that needs to be cleaned, use air to blow off dust and particles. Never wipe a book with a rag.
Don't store books and papers in sunlight - it will cause fading.
GLASS, POTTERY and PORCELAIN:
Wash individually in a padded washing basin to prevent chips. Use warm water - never hot or cold - and a gentle cleanser with a soft bristled brush. Never wash antique glass or dishes in the dishwasher since the extreme heat and harsh detergent may be harmful. Gently wipe glasses dry or allow dishes to air dry.
Store and display glass and dishes in a safe place away from heavy traffic. Avoid displaying on an open shelf, rail or on the wall, especially if there is heavy traffic through that area.
RUGS and TEXTILES:
Rugs and textiles require extremely gentle handling when moving, storing and cleaning.
Moving should be done slowly and carefully as antique fabrics are delicate and can easily tear or pull apart.
Rugs should be rolled with the pile facing outwards to prevent crushing or damage.
Garments should be hung on sturdy hangers and covered in white cotton or rolled with acid free paper and tied closed on either end.
Rugs and textiles can be cleaned gently with a vacuum on a low setting. Be very careful with textiles as the suction can pull fibers apart. For spills it is recommended by BBC Antiques to put white paper towels under the rug and above, replacing them until no more liquid comes out. Any other cleaning should be done by an expert. Avoid exposure to sun or humidity.
FURNITURE:
Dusting should be done with a soft, lint-free cloth. Wood furniture should only be waxed with quality beeswax. Avoid placing furnishings in bright light or in rooms which experience great changes in temperature or humidity. Be very cautious when moving antique furniture, always lifting and never dragging.
JEWELRY:
Clean with a soft brush, like a makeup brush, to remove dust. Next use windex, or other window type cleaner, and a very soft toothbrush to polish and clean. Do not use soap, or harsh abrasive.
It is a great privilege to own antiques and proper care will help your investment increase in value or enable you to pass them on for the enjoyment of your family.
Appraisal, Valuation and Inspired Guesswork or the Rise of TV Antique Shows and the Collecting Bug
The Price is Right.
Once upon a time you knew precisely where you stood. You were, metaphorically speaking, peering over the shoulder of the venerable Arthur Negus, denizen of that epitome of middle class culture, The Antiques Roadshow. Now, however, you're turning this way and that, amidst a plethora of antiques discovery programmes, as you seek to satisfy your voyeuristic craving and perhaps learn a little something as you go.
Life used to be very simple in the antique firmament on TV. Its first airing was Going for a Song in 1965, so ancient a time that England had yet to win the World Cup and I was still in short trousers, in a programme memorably described as a
"Pooterish pottery riddleathon, chaired in its glory days by Max Robertson with Arthur Negus stapled to one side for a bit of gossip. Max would then proffer a vaguely familiar looking antique loom at teams of experts and a clueless public, demanding both date and asking price. Points were awarded for the closest bid."
That won't ring too many bells with today's protagonists, by all accounts. This was an age in which most educated people were expected to have a routine general knowledge of art, antiques and collecting because it suggested some hint of engagement and appreciation of the world around them. Of course, the clueless public were a convenient prop to the cardsharps around them but the scenario hasn't deviated too far over the last forty years. Having said that, presenters could always be relied upon in yesteryear to wear a jacket and tie and a sensible haircut - this was the BBC after all - so one wasn't confronted, as is our current misfortune, by a bunch of D listers swathed in Hawaiian tee shirts and an all over tan.
Yet the extraordinary thing is that these programmes - and, believe me, there are plenty of them - have such enduring appeal. The antiques themselves obviously play their part but the real key is the human dimension and, without exception, it is a feature of all the latter day productions that the viewing public are encouraged to make contact and tell their stories. However, whereas The Antiques Roadshow was deliberately more formal in its approach, more recent entrants are positively gushing. The three best examples of this new genre are Flog It, Bargain Hunt and Cash in the Attic, each of which, like The Antiques Roadshow, have spawned some very ugly American hatchlings. More of that anon.
Back here, we have David Dickinson, full of grandiloquent gestures and gravelly tones, hosting Bargain Hunt. Dickinson, notwithstanding that he loves the sound of his own voice, has certainly done the rounds and knows his stuff unlike the motley crew from Cash in the Attic who look like cast offs from a lifestyle channel. Bargain Hunt is not designed to be too successful but just give a taste of what could be achieved with a good eye and a judicious approach though, as ever, it is most watchable when confronted by the unexpected. One contestant so successfully bought and sold a copper log box that Dickinson, momentarily speechless, had to dispatch a crew member to an ATM to cough up enough cash when he ran short. Priceless!
Howard Lewis Chairman
http://www.invaluable.com
Only Invaluable gives you unrivalled access to pre-sale and post-sale information for auction houses and salerooms across the globe.
Find art, antiques and collectables. Try our Keyword search, register at http://www.invaluable.com for a free 14 day trial.
Once upon a time you knew precisely where you stood. You were, metaphorically speaking, peering over the shoulder of the venerable Arthur Negus, denizen of that epitome of middle class culture, The Antiques Roadshow. Now, however, you're turning this way and that, amidst a plethora of antiques discovery programmes, as you seek to satisfy your voyeuristic craving and perhaps learn a little something as you go.
Life used to be very simple in the antique firmament on TV. Its first airing was Going for a Song in 1965, so ancient a time that England had yet to win the World Cup and I was still in short trousers, in a programme memorably described as a
"Pooterish pottery riddleathon, chaired in its glory days by Max Robertson with Arthur Negus stapled to one side for a bit of gossip. Max would then proffer a vaguely familiar looking antique loom at teams of experts and a clueless public, demanding both date and asking price. Points were awarded for the closest bid."
That won't ring too many bells with today's protagonists, by all accounts. This was an age in which most educated people were expected to have a routine general knowledge of art, antiques and collecting because it suggested some hint of engagement and appreciation of the world around them. Of course, the clueless public were a convenient prop to the cardsharps around them but the scenario hasn't deviated too far over the last forty years. Having said that, presenters could always be relied upon in yesteryear to wear a jacket and tie and a sensible haircut - this was the BBC after all - so one wasn't confronted, as is our current misfortune, by a bunch of D listers swathed in Hawaiian tee shirts and an all over tan.
Yet the extraordinary thing is that these programmes - and, believe me, there are plenty of them - have such enduring appeal. The antiques themselves obviously play their part but the real key is the human dimension and, without exception, it is a feature of all the latter day productions that the viewing public are encouraged to make contact and tell their stories. However, whereas The Antiques Roadshow was deliberately more formal in its approach, more recent entrants are positively gushing. The three best examples of this new genre are Flog It, Bargain Hunt and Cash in the Attic, each of which, like The Antiques Roadshow, have spawned some very ugly American hatchlings. More of that anon.
Back here, we have David Dickinson, full of grandiloquent gestures and gravelly tones, hosting Bargain Hunt. Dickinson, notwithstanding that he loves the sound of his own voice, has certainly done the rounds and knows his stuff unlike the motley crew from Cash in the Attic who look like cast offs from a lifestyle channel. Bargain Hunt is not designed to be too successful but just give a taste of what could be achieved with a good eye and a judicious approach though, as ever, it is most watchable when confronted by the unexpected. One contestant so successfully bought and sold a copper log box that Dickinson, momentarily speechless, had to dispatch a crew member to an ATM to cough up enough cash when he ran short. Priceless!
Howard Lewis Chairman
http://www.invaluable.com
Only Invaluable gives you unrivalled access to pre-sale and post-sale information for auction houses and salerooms across the globe.
Find art, antiques and collectables. Try our Keyword search, register at http://www.invaluable.com for a free 14 day trial.
Customers have "Happy Memories" when purchasing from Happy Memories Antiques!
March 31, 2004 -- Happy Memories Antiques and Collectibles, a New Jersey based company, is beginning their sixth year of providing quality merchandise through e-commerce to collectors and antiques dealers around the world. By providing a vast array of quality antiques and collectibles, excellent customer service and very competitive pricing, they have attracted customers from as far away as Australia and Japan who have purchased from their web site at www.happy-memories.com and their sister site at www.deerliteful.com. Happy Memories Antiques and Collectibles also belongs to EPublic Eye, an online organization which independently monitors e-businesses for reliability, privacy and customer satisfaction. A potential purchaser can view unedited comments from customers who purchased from Happy Memories by clicking the Epublic Eye link on the Happy Memories home page. They will see that the owners of Happy Memories go out of their way to provide quality service to their customers with an overall satisfaction rating of 98% and an assurance level of high. They will view comments such as โ€œHappy Memories went above and beyond most regular stores to see that I was satisfied with my purchase. It arrived promptly and very well packed. They did follow up to make sure that I am satisfied."
Although many WEB sites specialize in one line of merchandise, Happy Memories maintains a broad selection including vintage powder compacts, depression and Fenton glass, Goebel, Hummel and Lefton figurines, orientalia, porcelain and pottery, to name just a sampling. The business is managed by Frank and Elyce, a husband and wife team whose differences in taste complement each other to help bring this variety to the site. Elyce, who began the business in the 1980's, published a newsletter on Geisha Girl Porcelain for eight years prior to completing her book โ€œThe Collector's Encyclopedia of Geisha Girl Porcelainโ€ in 1988. In 1989, Frank wanted to expand by doing a few flea markets on weekends. The business has continued to grow. While Elyce does a vast amount of the research on the items they offer, Frank designed and maintains their WEB site, acting as webmaster and โ€œshipping departmentโ€ for the business.
If you are a deer lover like Elyce is, you won't want to miss the Deerliteful Antiques and Crafts website that Elyce developed. You can access Deerliteful from the Happy Memories home page or directly at www.deerliteful.com to view vintage and craft items. It is a great trip through nature and offers a wide selection of items with a deer theme.
Don't miss the opportunity to visit Happy Memories Antiques and Deerliteful Antiques and Crafts; I am sure you will enjoy it as thousands of visitors before you have.
www.happy-memories.com
www.deerliteful.com
Although many WEB sites specialize in one line of merchandise, Happy Memories maintains a broad selection including vintage powder compacts, depression and Fenton glass, Goebel, Hummel and Lefton figurines, orientalia, porcelain and pottery, to name just a sampling. The business is managed by Frank and Elyce, a husband and wife team whose differences in taste complement each other to help bring this variety to the site. Elyce, who began the business in the 1980's, published a newsletter on Geisha Girl Porcelain for eight years prior to completing her book โ€œThe Collector's Encyclopedia of Geisha Girl Porcelainโ€ in 1988. In 1989, Frank wanted to expand by doing a few flea markets on weekends. The business has continued to grow. While Elyce does a vast amount of the research on the items they offer, Frank designed and maintains their WEB site, acting as webmaster and โ€œshipping departmentโ€ for the business.
If you are a deer lover like Elyce is, you won't want to miss the Deerliteful Antiques and Crafts website that Elyce developed. You can access Deerliteful from the Happy Memories home page or directly at www.deerliteful.com to view vintage and craft items. It is a great trip through nature and offers a wide selection of items with a deer theme.
Don't miss the opportunity to visit Happy Memories Antiques and Deerliteful Antiques and Crafts; I am sure you will enjoy it as thousands of visitors before you have.
www.happy-memories.com
www.deerliteful.com
As Time Goes By: The Definition of an Antique
A common question among new collectors or those starting an antique dealer business is why are some old items called antiques while others are just called vintage? Good question. A question that makes me think of vinegar. Huh? There is everyday newly produced vinegar that costs pennies then there is aged vinegar that can cost as much as a bottle of fine aged wine or liquor. The same is also true for "stuff". Technically, anything be it a hair pin to a piece of paper is anointed with antique status on its century old birthday, and antiques are so desired because they simply get better with age. It is this aging process that gives an item, be it food or furniture, a quality that cannot be reproduced.
The set standard for antiques in the industry is when an item is 100 years old. Normally antique dealers (the honest ones) stick to this timeline so customers can rely on a consistent standard, but the inexperienced ebayer or unscrupulous seller may list an item that is only 75, 50, even 30 years old as an antique, when it is really vintage. So always ask the seller how old it is. If they claim not to know ask how they determined it was an antique. That is certainly a fair question. As the buyer you must educate yourself on how to spot a fake, or you may end up paying hundreds, maybe thousands of dollars for a reproduction. (Reproductions have been made for centuries, so even the old fakes look authentic!)
Exception to the Rule
Firearms must actually be older than 100 years in order to be an antique. Hold it, don't get locked up. It's not that bad, but guns must have been manufactured before 1898 to be an antique.
Have and Eye for the Old
New collectors tend to overlook the fact that it is not difficult to manufacture an item in the same style as a period piece, and with aging techniques it can be very difficult to spot a fake. So, how can you tell if your "antique" is hot off the assembly line or the genuine article? The only proven method is to read every resource about the items you wish to buy. Subscribe to specialty magazines, read collecting books, analyze pictures readily available online that are common fakes, and attend auction previews were you can freely examine items. This becomes your education and how you will acquire an eye for what is old. Remember, you can abstain from acquiring antiques at an auction, and simply go to learn. Look over the items. Hold them. Feel the fabrics. Compare old pieces of glass, porcelain and pottery to newer ones. The more you see it, feel it, and study it, the more of an expert you become.
For example, an experienced person may see old tin pea cans that were pitched by workers under a bridge over a hundred years ago and think they were trash. But the experienced collector knows that if those labels are in pretty good shape, that trash is actually a treasure. This doesn't apply to all antiques, however. Just because something is an antique doesn't mean it will bring big daddy the big bucks.
<
Old Fakes
Unfortunately, people have been making and selling rip-off items for centuries, so age does not always equal authenticity. Older reproductions require more research to identify, so do your homework.
Doh! I Bought a Fake
Breathe. Breathe. It's okay. There is actually an entire market just for reproductions. Some people feel it is a crime against humanity and all that is sacred to spend a lot of money for an item they will only stare at through a glass barricade and never actually use.
For this market segment, reproductions make all the sense in the world. They can be used, abused, but just don't be confused---it is not the real thing. So, if you have a reproduction, don't try to sell it to someone as the real deal. Sell it as a reproduction—you'll be surprised how many interested buyers pop up.
Christina Bultinck writes for BuyContentOnline.com, a service that sells original content to clients. She has been a professional writer/author for ten years. Topics covered include auctions and antiques. She can be reached at contentondemand@aol.com
The set standard for antiques in the industry is when an item is 100 years old. Normally antique dealers (the honest ones) stick to this timeline so customers can rely on a consistent standard, but the inexperienced ebayer or unscrupulous seller may list an item that is only 75, 50, even 30 years old as an antique, when it is really vintage. So always ask the seller how old it is. If they claim not to know ask how they determined it was an antique. That is certainly a fair question. As the buyer you must educate yourself on how to spot a fake, or you may end up paying hundreds, maybe thousands of dollars for a reproduction. (Reproductions have been made for centuries, so even the old fakes look authentic!)
Exception to the Rule
Firearms must actually be older than 100 years in order to be an antique. Hold it, don't get locked up. It's not that bad, but guns must have been manufactured before 1898 to be an antique.
Have and Eye for the Old
New collectors tend to overlook the fact that it is not difficult to manufacture an item in the same style as a period piece, and with aging techniques it can be very difficult to spot a fake. So, how can you tell if your "antique" is hot off the assembly line or the genuine article? The only proven method is to read every resource about the items you wish to buy. Subscribe to specialty magazines, read collecting books, analyze pictures readily available online that are common fakes, and attend auction previews were you can freely examine items. This becomes your education and how you will acquire an eye for what is old. Remember, you can abstain from acquiring antiques at an auction, and simply go to learn. Look over the items. Hold them. Feel the fabrics. Compare old pieces of glass, porcelain and pottery to newer ones. The more you see it, feel it, and study it, the more of an expert you become.
For example, an experienced person may see old tin pea cans that were pitched by workers under a bridge over a hundred years ago and think they were trash. But the experienced collector knows that if those labels are in pretty good shape, that trash is actually a treasure. This doesn't apply to all antiques, however. Just because something is an antique doesn't mean it will bring big daddy the big bucks.
<
Old Fakes
Unfortunately, people have been making and selling rip-off items for centuries, so age does not always equal authenticity. Older reproductions require more research to identify, so do your homework.
Doh! I Bought a Fake
Breathe. Breathe. It's okay. There is actually an entire market just for reproductions. Some people feel it is a crime against humanity and all that is sacred to spend a lot of money for an item they will only stare at through a glass barricade and never actually use.
For this market segment, reproductions make all the sense in the world. They can be used, abused, but just don't be confused---it is not the real thing. So, if you have a reproduction, don't try to sell it to someone as the real deal. Sell it as a reproduction—you'll be surprised how many interested buyers pop up.
Christina Bultinck writes for BuyContentOnline.com, a service that sells original content to clients. She has been a professional writer/author for ten years. Topics covered include auctions and antiques. She can be reached at contentondemand@aol.com
How to Care For Your Antiques and Collectibles
For music box and antique collectors, taking good care of their valuable collectibles is important. For those who have inherited a collection of wonderful heirlooms and haven't the foggiest idea on how to keep them nice, or have not been keeping up with their collection as well as they should, caring for these special items properly has wonderful benefits. It ensures that they can be passed down to loved ones or sold at their highest value.
The following are tips on caring for antiques and collectibles. In addition, online sites such as the BBC and Antiques-UK, Amica.org and mbsi.org for music box antique collectors, anteq.com., and listantiques.com also provide detailed information on caring for various antiques. Don't forget about eBay either as they are tons of antique buffs there. Be sure to check out the collectibles forum.
Tip #1: GLASS, POTTERY and PORCELAIN:
If you have these items, when you wash them, do so individually and always in a padded washing basin to prevent chipping. Use warm water - never hot or cold - and a gentle cleanser with a soft bristled brush. Do not ever put antique glass or dishes in the dishwasher! The extreme heat and harsh detergent can be harmful. Allow glasses and allow dishes to air dry.
Tip #2 USE PROPER DISPLAY AND STORAGE
If you life in a household full of little ones or just have lots of folks around in general, store and display glass and dishes in a safe place away from heavy traffic. Do not put items to display on an open shelf, or rail. Also, avoid putting them on walls if your home is subject to vibrations from nearby trains or is busy with people passing along those walls.
Tip #3 RUGS and TEXTILES:
Both rugs and textiles require care when moving, storing, or cleaning them.
When moving these items, do so slowly and carefully as antique fabrics are delicate and can easily tear or pull apart.
When you must rollup an antique rug, do so with the pile facing outwards to prevent crushing or damage. Your antique garments should be hung on sturdy hangers and covered in white cotton or rolled with acid free paper and tied closed on either end.
Rugs and textiles can be vacuumed, but only on a low setting. Always make sure you extra care when you vaccum textiles because you don't want the suction to pull fibers apart. For spills it is best to put white paper towels under the rug and above, replacing them until no more liquid comes out. Any other cleaning should be done by an expert. In addition, avoid exposure to sun or humidity.
Tip #4: ANTIQUES AND FURNITURE:
Antique and collectible furniture can be unique and special. When you dust it, use a soft, lint-free cloth. Wooden furniture should only be waxed with quality beeswax. Avoid placing furnishings in bright light or in rooms which experience great changes in temperature or humidity as this can be very damaging. Take extreme care when moving antique furniture, always lifting and never dragging.
Having a valuable collection of antiques and all manner of collectibles is a great privilege. Taking proper care of your antiques and collectibles will not only help increase its value, but also enbable them to be passed down from generation to generation.
Copyright 2006 Monique Hawkins
Established in May of 2005, http://www.My-Music-Box.com is a music box gift store specializing in music box products such as inlaid ballerina music boxes for ballerina rooms d้cor, whimsical carousel music boxes, and musical jewelry boxes. The company provides interesting information for music lovers of all ages. Owner Monique Hawkins is also the author of the blog "What You Never Knew About Music" http://whatyouneverknewaboutmusic.blogspot.com, and owner of the eBay store "Monique's Music Box" at: http://stores.ebay.com/Moniques-Music-Box Monique can be contacted at (540) 858-2885.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Monique_Hawkins
The following are tips on caring for antiques and collectibles. In addition, online sites such as the BBC and Antiques-UK, Amica.org and mbsi.org for music box antique collectors, anteq.com., and listantiques.com also provide detailed information on caring for various antiques. Don't forget about eBay either as they are tons of antique buffs there. Be sure to check out the collectibles forum.
Tip #1: GLASS, POTTERY and PORCELAIN:
If you have these items, when you wash them, do so individually and always in a padded washing basin to prevent chipping. Use warm water - never hot or cold - and a gentle cleanser with a soft bristled brush. Do not ever put antique glass or dishes in the dishwasher! The extreme heat and harsh detergent can be harmful. Allow glasses and allow dishes to air dry.
Tip #2 USE PROPER DISPLAY AND STORAGE
If you life in a household full of little ones or just have lots of folks around in general, store and display glass and dishes in a safe place away from heavy traffic. Do not put items to display on an open shelf, or rail. Also, avoid putting them on walls if your home is subject to vibrations from nearby trains or is busy with people passing along those walls.
Tip #3 RUGS and TEXTILES:
Both rugs and textiles require care when moving, storing, or cleaning them.
When moving these items, do so slowly and carefully as antique fabrics are delicate and can easily tear or pull apart.
When you must rollup an antique rug, do so with the pile facing outwards to prevent crushing or damage. Your antique garments should be hung on sturdy hangers and covered in white cotton or rolled with acid free paper and tied closed on either end.
Rugs and textiles can be vacuumed, but only on a low setting. Always make sure you extra care when you vaccum textiles because you don't want the suction to pull fibers apart. For spills it is best to put white paper towels under the rug and above, replacing them until no more liquid comes out. Any other cleaning should be done by an expert. In addition, avoid exposure to sun or humidity.
Tip #4: ANTIQUES AND FURNITURE:
Antique and collectible furniture can be unique and special. When you dust it, use a soft, lint-free cloth. Wooden furniture should only be waxed with quality beeswax. Avoid placing furnishings in bright light or in rooms which experience great changes in temperature or humidity as this can be very damaging. Take extreme care when moving antique furniture, always lifting and never dragging.
Having a valuable collection of antiques and all manner of collectibles is a great privilege. Taking proper care of your antiques and collectibles will not only help increase its value, but also enbable them to be passed down from generation to generation.
Copyright 2006 Monique Hawkins
Established in May of 2005, http://www.My-Music-Box.com is a music box gift store specializing in music box products such as inlaid ballerina music boxes for ballerina rooms d้cor, whimsical carousel music boxes, and musical jewelry boxes. The company provides interesting information for music lovers of all ages. Owner Monique Hawkins is also the author of the blog "What You Never Knew About Music" http://whatyouneverknewaboutmusic.blogspot.com, and owner of the eBay store "Monique's Music Box" at: http://stores.ebay.com/Moniques-Music-Box Monique can be contacted at (540) 858-2885.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Monique_Hawkins
Rare Antiques
Rare Antiques
What are antiques?
Antiques are simply defined as "old collectible items." A number of objects accumulate more value as they age. Among them are vintage cars, jewelry,
furniture, coins, and vases, among others. Not only do they grow in sentimental, historical, and cultural worth, the also grow in corresponding monetary
value. For antiques, the older, the rarer, and the stronger the item is despite its age, the more valuable it is. That's why rare antiques cost a lot of
money, and only those who can afford it can really collect them.
Why do people collect antiques?
Antique collectors usually get into this hobby not just because of antiques' worth in all aspects, but also because of the pleasure of being able to
appreciate the art and craftsmanship of earlier humans etched in each antique piece. Having antiques gives a feeling of collecting pieces of history with
these silent witnesses of the past.
Antiques are important in sociological, historical, and anthropological studies. They are also especially important in many other social sciences, and even
in actual sciences such as geology.
What are the different types of antique collectables?
There are various types of antique collectables. Among them are antique pieces of furniture (be it English, continental, American, African or Asian, among
others), glasses, plates and ceramics (such as silver plates, Sheffield plates, and ceramic plates), pottery, porcelain, ivory items, enamels, products of
metallurgy, precious stones (such as ruby and jade), antique clocks and watches, antique musical and jewelry boxes, jewelry, cars, laces, embroidery and
other fabric products, and tapestry, among many others.
Where can antiques be found?
Antiques can usually be found in museums, antique shops, homes of antique collectors, old houses, and other places where antiques can be displayed. Dealers
of antiques, especially rare antiques, usually belong to national trade associations, antique collectors associations, or other groups of antique
enthusiasts.
Antique Shopping: Testing Rare Antiques
There are various ways of testing the authenticity of antiques, especially those that sellers claim to be "real antiques". The first and most basic is by
checking if there is any marking or signature signifying the maker or the antique item and/or the year it was made.
Antique collectors make use of black light with long waves in checking out antiques and testing if they are authentic. These black light devices offer
various ways of detecting fake or broken antiques. If you find any of the following on the antique item before you, you might need to reconsider the price ad
conditions of your trade.
1. Porcelain Repairs
Some signs of antique repair cannot be easily seen by the naked eye. However, with the ultraviolet light from black light devices, it would be easy to spot
if repairs were made on porcelain antique.
2. Reproduction Glass
With today's technology, it easy to make an imitation of almost any work of art, including antiques. The use of black light on antiques made of glass is
particularly helpful in detecting reproduction glass. Reproduction glass usually does not glow under black light. Also, you can determine the type of glass
used on the antique item simply by checking out the color that they're supposed to exhibit under black light. Depression glass, American colorless glass,
Vaseline glass, and other glasses have their different characteristics.
3. Repairs in Works of Art
Even repairs, cracks, and other blemishes in art works can be detected under black light. Some paintings might have been repaired.
4. Ephemera
Chemical bleaches and dyes glow under black light. Because of this, you'd be able to see if any memorabilia item has been tampered with.
Even antique items made of fabric and iron can be checked using black light. Just make sure to ask antique experts of read on how to interpret what you would
see under the black light.
Philip Nash has been interested in antiques since he was young, with his father being an antique collector himself. He inherited his father's collections, knowledge, and interests. He studied more about antiques in a university in Connecticut.
What are antiques?
Antiques are simply defined as "old collectible items." A number of objects accumulate more value as they age. Among them are vintage cars, jewelry,
furniture, coins, and vases, among others. Not only do they grow in sentimental, historical, and cultural worth, the also grow in corresponding monetary
value. For antiques, the older, the rarer, and the stronger the item is despite its age, the more valuable it is. That's why rare antiques cost a lot of
money, and only those who can afford it can really collect them.
Why do people collect antiques?
Antique collectors usually get into this hobby not just because of antiques' worth in all aspects, but also because of the pleasure of being able to
appreciate the art and craftsmanship of earlier humans etched in each antique piece. Having antiques gives a feeling of collecting pieces of history with
these silent witnesses of the past.
Antiques are important in sociological, historical, and anthropological studies. They are also especially important in many other social sciences, and even
in actual sciences such as geology.
What are the different types of antique collectables?
There are various types of antique collectables. Among them are antique pieces of furniture (be it English, continental, American, African or Asian, among
others), glasses, plates and ceramics (such as silver plates, Sheffield plates, and ceramic plates), pottery, porcelain, ivory items, enamels, products of
metallurgy, precious stones (such as ruby and jade), antique clocks and watches, antique musical and jewelry boxes, jewelry, cars, laces, embroidery and
other fabric products, and tapestry, among many others.
Where can antiques be found?
Antiques can usually be found in museums, antique shops, homes of antique collectors, old houses, and other places where antiques can be displayed. Dealers
of antiques, especially rare antiques, usually belong to national trade associations, antique collectors associations, or other groups of antique
enthusiasts.
Antique Shopping: Testing Rare Antiques
There are various ways of testing the authenticity of antiques, especially those that sellers claim to be "real antiques". The first and most basic is by
checking if there is any marking or signature signifying the maker or the antique item and/or the year it was made.
Antique collectors make use of black light with long waves in checking out antiques and testing if they are authentic. These black light devices offer
various ways of detecting fake or broken antiques. If you find any of the following on the antique item before you, you might need to reconsider the price ad
conditions of your trade.
1. Porcelain Repairs
Some signs of antique repair cannot be easily seen by the naked eye. However, with the ultraviolet light from black light devices, it would be easy to spot
if repairs were made on porcelain antique.
2. Reproduction Glass
With today's technology, it easy to make an imitation of almost any work of art, including antiques. The use of black light on antiques made of glass is
particularly helpful in detecting reproduction glass. Reproduction glass usually does not glow under black light. Also, you can determine the type of glass
used on the antique item simply by checking out the color that they're supposed to exhibit under black light. Depression glass, American colorless glass,
Vaseline glass, and other glasses have their different characteristics.
3. Repairs in Works of Art
Even repairs, cracks, and other blemishes in art works can be detected under black light. Some paintings might have been repaired.
4. Ephemera
Chemical bleaches and dyes glow under black light. Because of this, you'd be able to see if any memorabilia item has been tampered with.
Even antique items made of fabric and iron can be checked using black light. Just make sure to ask antique experts of read on how to interpret what you would
see under the black light.
Philip Nash has been interested in antiques since he was young, with his father being an antique collector himself. He inherited his father's collections, knowledge, and interests. He studied more about antiques in a university in Connecticut.
Hand Extruder Clay Pottery Art
Hand extruders are an indispensable adjunct to clay pottery art. Extruders can be used to form the main piece itself, or to add elements to wheel-thrown vessels. Even pulled handles can start out as extrusions. Although it may appear at first that using extruders to produce work enables the artisan to make scores of identical items quickly, in fact just the opposite is true. Extruded pottery requires measuring, cutting, smoothing, and joining, and therefore can require more time than a similar pot which is thrown. For some types of forms, extruding is the best way to go. Although manufacturers offer many different die configurations, serious extruder enthusiasts make their own dies. Designing and making dies is an integral part of the creative process; it requires thinking in a different perspective, because it is the negative die space which produces the form. With practice it is possible to shift one's spatial thinking so that it is easy to picture the three dimensional piece which is obtained from a shape outline cut into a die of two dimensions; and vice versa. Indeed, I sometimes look at everyday objects and try to picture mentally what the die which would be needed to form them looks like.
Pottery decorated with twisted coil handles and rims have been popular since antiquity. While twisted coils can be made by hand, they have a high rate of failure since they often crack during the drying or firing. One solution is to extrude the coils, which ends the cracking problem and also speeds up the job. For example, to make a Mexican clay pottery style bucket with braided rope top, start with a plain thrown cylinder. It is the extruded handle and rim which give this useful object its unique look. To form the bucket part, use 3 ½ lbs of clay and throw a 6" diameter cylinder which is about 7" high. Do not cut the pot from the bat when it is finished since it must be returned to the wheel later in order to attach the rim. When the pot is leather-hard, place a twisted rope extrusion around the top edge of the pot, beginning with one end and working towards the other. A fetting knife or cheese cutter can be used to cut the extrusion to the exact length needed, at an angle along the twisted extrusion lines. This provides increased surface area to form a tight joint. The rim is attached to the pot, both inside and outside, by gently pushing the clay into the bucket body. Then the join is smoothed and blended by rotating the wheel slowly, and gently throwing the join. The rim is pinched and extended at opposite sides of the bucket rim to make two lugs for attaching the handle.
Decorative coils or pellets can be added on either side of the lugs. Then, cut the bucket from the bat, and cover it to permit the moisture level to even out. When leather-hard, two holes for the bail of the handle are punched in the lugs with a piece of ¼" tubing. The bucket handle is made from a short piece of the twisted extrusion left over from the hand extruder when making the rim. Roll the extrusion over a handle roller, which is made by gluing short pieces of quarter round and cove molding to a board. Just before the handle is leather-hard, a hole is made through its length with a metal rod. It is easiest to work from one end for an inch or two, then switch ends and work towards the middle. After the pieces are fired, a 14" long brass rod (such as brazing rod) is inserted in the handle, centered, and then bent to shape. The ends of the rod can be threaded with a 6/32 metal cutting die, and secured to the bucket with threaded brass balls obtained from a lamp parts supply company.
Pottery decorated with twisted coil handles and rims have been popular since antiquity. While twisted coils can be made by hand, they have a high rate of failure since they often crack during the drying or firing. One solution is to extrude the coils, which ends the cracking problem and also speeds up the job. For example, to make a Mexican clay pottery style bucket with braided rope top, start with a plain thrown cylinder. It is the extruded handle and rim which give this useful object its unique look. To form the bucket part, use 3 ½ lbs of clay and throw a 6" diameter cylinder which is about 7" high. Do not cut the pot from the bat when it is finished since it must be returned to the wheel later in order to attach the rim. When the pot is leather-hard, place a twisted rope extrusion around the top edge of the pot, beginning with one end and working towards the other. A fetting knife or cheese cutter can be used to cut the extrusion to the exact length needed, at an angle along the twisted extrusion lines. This provides increased surface area to form a tight joint. The rim is attached to the pot, both inside and outside, by gently pushing the clay into the bucket body. Then the join is smoothed and blended by rotating the wheel slowly, and gently throwing the join. The rim is pinched and extended at opposite sides of the bucket rim to make two lugs for attaching the handle.
Decorative coils or pellets can be added on either side of the lugs. Then, cut the bucket from the bat, and cover it to permit the moisture level to even out. When leather-hard, two holes for the bail of the handle are punched in the lugs with a piece of ¼" tubing. The bucket handle is made from a short piece of the twisted extrusion left over from the hand extruder when making the rim. Roll the extrusion over a handle roller, which is made by gluing short pieces of quarter round and cove molding to a board. Just before the handle is leather-hard, a hole is made through its length with a metal rod. It is easiest to work from one end for an inch or two, then switch ends and work towards the middle. After the pieces are fired, a 14" long brass rod (such as brazing rod) is inserted in the handle, centered, and then bent to shape. The ends of the rod can be threaded with a 6/32 metal cutting die, and secured to the bucket with threaded brass balls obtained from a lamp parts supply company.
A hand extruder is quite useful in creating striking visual accents in clay pottery art. This simple Mexican clay pottery bucket with twisted coil rim is one example of the many possibilities.
China and Pottery Collecting is Fun
You probably have a diverse selection of pottery and china collected because you like it, which is as good of a reason as any. However, as one becomes more serious and discerning about what these figurines and trinkets are, the more one needs to understand how and with what they are made. The subject of ceramic production is huge and if you need in depth knowledge then you should consult your local library or consult the online booksellers.
Pottery and china are words bandied about without really being aware of what they mean; for the collector it is necessary to understand the basics so he can know what he has or is buying. All ceramics are based on some form of clay found locally or imported. Earthenware is the basic clay based product fired at 1000°C to 1150ºC and is usually porous e.g. simple pots like flower pots. Stoneware is the basic clay fired at 1150ºC to 1400ºC and tends to be non-porous e.g. Royal Doulton jugs and pots Porcelain is make from kaolin clay (white in colour) or similar and fired at 1300ºC. This tends to be hard and brittle. There are soft paste and hard paste variants on this as well. Other variants include bone, hence bone china and porcelain and should not be confused with modern materials which are much more sophisticated.
All the potters worldwide made variations on these basic processes and there are hundreds of additives which changed the characteristics of the clay, Wedgwood developed Jasperware in the 18th century which is a stoneware with properties of porcelain still in production today. There are any number of glazes used to seal the body or decorate it. It is a very complex subject because every potter was trying to outdo his competitor and still is. Suffice it to say there are variations in these production methods, whether it is the huge mass producers or the small studio potter. All are collectible.
Deciding on what to collect may at first appear daunting, but if you consider your interests it is easy to narrow the field down to a few or even one area.
The first thing to do is to decide old or new? Then which century 18th, 19th, 20th or even 21st. Prior to the 18th century takes us into medieval, roman and earlier. Many will be classified as antiquities and is a fascinating subject in its own right. You must consult specialist books on this subject. There are many fakes.
You may decide to collect "Blue and White", popular and expensive, Carlton Ware still available at a reasonable price, Art Deco pieces or Staffordshire Figures which can be expensive, fairings - originally given away at fairs, animals by many manufacturers which vary in price depending on quality, advertising pieces, commemorative ware, crested china, decorative plates of which there are thousands (you can collect by theme or manufacturer) and any number of studio pottery pieces. There are many studio potters, some famous, others not so, some of which are easy to collect today since they have not entered the realm of desirable antiques.
Consult any book on collectibles and you will find many names new to you. Whatever you collect make sure you are well read on the subject. Only collect perfect or expertly restored pieces because damaged pieces are worth a fraction of the price of a perfect piece. This way you can avoid the many pitfalls in the collecting market.
Pottery and china are words bandied about without really being aware of what they mean; for the collector it is necessary to understand the basics so he can know what he has or is buying. All ceramics are based on some form of clay found locally or imported. Earthenware is the basic clay based product fired at 1000°C to 1150ºC and is usually porous e.g. simple pots like flower pots. Stoneware is the basic clay fired at 1150ºC to 1400ºC and tends to be non-porous e.g. Royal Doulton jugs and pots Porcelain is make from kaolin clay (white in colour) or similar and fired at 1300ºC. This tends to be hard and brittle. There are soft paste and hard paste variants on this as well. Other variants include bone, hence bone china and porcelain and should not be confused with modern materials which are much more sophisticated.
All the potters worldwide made variations on these basic processes and there are hundreds of additives which changed the characteristics of the clay, Wedgwood developed Jasperware in the 18th century which is a stoneware with properties of porcelain still in production today. There are any number of glazes used to seal the body or decorate it. It is a very complex subject because every potter was trying to outdo his competitor and still is. Suffice it to say there are variations in these production methods, whether it is the huge mass producers or the small studio potter. All are collectible.
Deciding on what to collect may at first appear daunting, but if you consider your interests it is easy to narrow the field down to a few or even one area.
The first thing to do is to decide old or new? Then which century 18th, 19th, 20th or even 21st. Prior to the 18th century takes us into medieval, roman and earlier. Many will be classified as antiquities and is a fascinating subject in its own right. You must consult specialist books on this subject. There are many fakes.
You may decide to collect "Blue and White", popular and expensive, Carlton Ware still available at a reasonable price, Art Deco pieces or Staffordshire Figures which can be expensive, fairings - originally given away at fairs, animals by many manufacturers which vary in price depending on quality, advertising pieces, commemorative ware, crested china, decorative plates of which there are thousands (you can collect by theme or manufacturer) and any number of studio pottery pieces. There are many studio potters, some famous, others not so, some of which are easy to collect today since they have not entered the realm of desirable antiques.
Consult any book on collectibles and you will find many names new to you. Whatever you collect make sure you are well read on the subject. Only collect perfect or expertly restored pieces because damaged pieces are worth a fraction of the price of a perfect piece. This way you can avoid the many pitfalls in the collecting market.
Collector's Auction of Teapots, Sterling Silver, Jewelry, Pottery, Antiques
July 21, 2004 -- On Friday, July 23, 2004 at 6:00 p.m. Bob & Sallie Connelly will hold a Collector's Auction at the Showplace in Binghamton, New York. Following a 5:00 p.m. preview, over 150 teapots, pottery and china, glassware, furniture, sterling silver, dolls, jewelry, watches and antiques will be offered at auction without reserve.
The auction will include teapots by Hall including Red and Orange Poppies and Windshields, by Hull including a Snail pot and by McCoy, Russell Wright, Satsuma, and others. Hall, Watts, Haviland and Rose O'Neil are some of the makers represented in the pottery and china for sale. Glassware will include stemware and two bride's baskets. A variety of furniture from several periods will be offered including desks, chests, beds and mirrors.
The sterling silver in the auction includes a 1923 Tiffany seven-piece dresser set, Hutschenreuther demitasse cups, and a Prelue Pattern teapot with creamer and sugar by International Silver. In a separate auction starting at 6:30 p.m., the Connellys will offer three Armond Marseille dolls including an 18-inch Queen Louise, a 6-inch Nippon Bisque doll, and eight large dollhouses and an assortment of furnishings. Also included in the auction: jewelry such as diamond rings, necklaces, bracelets and pendants, and watches such as a Cartier 18k yellow gold tank watch.
Bob and Sallie Connelly, whose business includes antiques, auctions, appraisals and an art gallery, have been holding auctions in Binghamton for more than 30 years. This Collector's Auction will be held at their 40,000-square-foot Showplace auction facility at Binghamton Plaza. The Showplace is located at 33 West State Street, Binghamton, NY 13901-2461.
Additional details, a partial listing, and photographs are available at http://www.bobconnelly.com/072304auction.html and on request by phone (607-722-9593), fax (607-722-1266) or email to sallie@bobconnelly.com. Phone and absentee bids will be accepted online, by phone or fax on items over $50. Please visit the website or call for directions, complete terms and conditions.
The auction will include teapots by Hall including Red and Orange Poppies and Windshields, by Hull including a Snail pot and by McCoy, Russell Wright, Satsuma, and others. Hall, Watts, Haviland and Rose O'Neil are some of the makers represented in the pottery and china for sale. Glassware will include stemware and two bride's baskets. A variety of furniture from several periods will be offered including desks, chests, beds and mirrors.
The sterling silver in the auction includes a 1923 Tiffany seven-piece dresser set, Hutschenreuther demitasse cups, and a Prelue Pattern teapot with creamer and sugar by International Silver. In a separate auction starting at 6:30 p.m., the Connellys will offer three Armond Marseille dolls including an 18-inch Queen Louise, a 6-inch Nippon Bisque doll, and eight large dollhouses and an assortment of furnishings. Also included in the auction: jewelry such as diamond rings, necklaces, bracelets and pendants, and watches such as a Cartier 18k yellow gold tank watch.
Bob and Sallie Connelly, whose business includes antiques, auctions, appraisals and an art gallery, have been holding auctions in Binghamton for more than 30 years. This Collector's Auction will be held at their 40,000-square-foot Showplace auction facility at Binghamton Plaza. The Showplace is located at 33 West State Street, Binghamton, NY 13901-2461.
Additional details, a partial listing, and photographs are available at http://www.bobconnelly.com/072304auction.html and on request by phone (607-722-9593), fax (607-722-1266) or email to sallie@bobconnelly.com. Phone and absentee bids will be accepted online, by phone or fax on items over $50. Please visit the website or call for directions, complete terms and conditions.
Why is an Antique an Antique?
When an item celebrates its 100th birthday, it graduates from "old" to "antique" according to government standards-it doesn't matter what that item is. Dealers and collectors usually hold to that standard for furniture, but are a more liberal in their timeline with other items and offer antique status to anything about 60 years old. Examples of these include; photographs, postcards, textiles, pottery, china, jewelry and the list could go on. Some unscrupulous sellers will label anything 30-40 years old as an antique, so when you see that word without a year listed in a description, always, always do your research before bidding or buying. The term antique has nothing to do with the item, and everything to do with age, so as a buyer it is important to know what age the seller considers to be an antique. You'll often see descriptions online that read "Antique chair. Leather. Great condition. Clean. Picture says it all." Well, no, the picture does not say it all. How old is it? What hardware is on it? What does the underneath look like? Was it refinished? What is the seller's definition of antique? That is why it is very important to stick to the standard age of 100 years as a seller describing items. It won't hurt your sales as long as you list the year in the description and as much information about it as possible.
A collectible on the other hand, is all about the item. Collectibles are highly sought after items that are less than 100 years old. Collectibles are related to current demand, nostalgia, pop culture, and trends of today and once an item hits 100 years of age it is officially an antique. (Collectibles are often sold in antique stores because they do generate a great deal of revenue, so be aware of this when antiquing offline.) Collectibles include "brand" items such as Coca-Cola items, PEZ dispensers, Beanie Babies, old baseball cards, Hollywood and or pop culture items all under 100 years old. "Collectible" can be a relative term. To some sectors of the world an item is a highly sought after collectible with market value and to others it is just "a thing."
Another term you will often hear is "vintage." Vintage describes what is neither an antique nor a collectible, but may still have value. It may be collectible to someone, but doesn't really have a large demand in the antique/collectible marketplace. Examples of vintage items include clothing (vintage jeans, vintage t-shirts), furniture, jewelry, kitchen or farm items, and wedding dresses. As a buyer the term "vintage" has an appealing sound, remember to perform extra research to determine its value. Vintage items are huge in the home d้cor and crafting industries.
How do you know something is old?
It is not difficult to manufacture an item in the same style as a period piece, but it takes work to age it. When something is old, you can usually tell and it will come easy the more you attend auctions, estate and garage sales. Remember, you don't always have to go to an auction or sale to buy something—it can be a learning experience simply to attend. Look over the items. Hold them. Feel the fabrics. Compare old pieces of glass, porcelain and pottery to newer ones. This is also a good way to study how others grade items. The more you see it, feel it, and study it, the more of an expert you become. But age does not equal authenticity. Knock offs have been created for centuries—as long as people have paid large amounts of money for antiques. Older reproductions require more research to identify, so do your homework.
Christina Bultinck is published writer/author with ten years experience. She creates custom original content for businesses at BuyContentOnline.com.
By BuyContentOnline.com
Christina Bultinck is published writer/author with ten years experience. She creates custom original content for businesses at BuyContentOnline.com.
A collectible on the other hand, is all about the item. Collectibles are highly sought after items that are less than 100 years old. Collectibles are related to current demand, nostalgia, pop culture, and trends of today and once an item hits 100 years of age it is officially an antique. (Collectibles are often sold in antique stores because they do generate a great deal of revenue, so be aware of this when antiquing offline.) Collectibles include "brand" items such as Coca-Cola items, PEZ dispensers, Beanie Babies, old baseball cards, Hollywood and or pop culture items all under 100 years old. "Collectible" can be a relative term. To some sectors of the world an item is a highly sought after collectible with market value and to others it is just "a thing."
Another term you will often hear is "vintage." Vintage describes what is neither an antique nor a collectible, but may still have value. It may be collectible to someone, but doesn't really have a large demand in the antique/collectible marketplace. Examples of vintage items include clothing (vintage jeans, vintage t-shirts), furniture, jewelry, kitchen or farm items, and wedding dresses. As a buyer the term "vintage" has an appealing sound, remember to perform extra research to determine its value. Vintage items are huge in the home d้cor and crafting industries.
How do you know something is old?
It is not difficult to manufacture an item in the same style as a period piece, but it takes work to age it. When something is old, you can usually tell and it will come easy the more you attend auctions, estate and garage sales. Remember, you don't always have to go to an auction or sale to buy something—it can be a learning experience simply to attend. Look over the items. Hold them. Feel the fabrics. Compare old pieces of glass, porcelain and pottery to newer ones. This is also a good way to study how others grade items. The more you see it, feel it, and study it, the more of an expert you become. But age does not equal authenticity. Knock offs have been created for centuries—as long as people have paid large amounts of money for antiques. Older reproductions require more research to identify, so do your homework.
Christina Bultinck is published writer/author with ten years experience. She creates custom original content for businesses at BuyContentOnline.com.
By BuyContentOnline.com
Christina Bultinck is published writer/author with ten years experience. She creates custom original content for businesses at BuyContentOnline.com.
Finding Out More About Antique Thimbles And China Porcelain
European, especially British, porcelain, pottery and china are by and large very well marked as to who made them. The registration mark is another identification tool available to help you decipher when your antique item was made.
The registration mark appears as a diamond shaped mark and gives the EARLIEST possible date of manufacturer. These marks were used on porcelain, pottery and china from 1842 through 1883. The purpose of the mark was to show that the design or shape had been registered at the Patent Office in London and was thereby protected from piracy by other manufacturers for a period of three years.
General Rules for dating marks - There are several general rules for dating ceramic marks, attention to which will avoid several common errors. Printed marks incorporating the Royal Arms are a 19th or 20th century date. Printed marks incorporating the name of the pattern are after 1810. Marks incorporating the word 'Limited', or the abbreviations 'Ltd', 'Ld', etc., denote a date after 1861, and most examples are much later. Incorporation of the words 'Trade Mark' in a mark denotes a date subsequent to the Act of 1862. Inclusion of the word 'Royal' in a firm's title or trade name suggests a date in the second half of the 19th century, if not a 20th-century dating. Inclusion of the abbreviation 'R N' (for Registered Number) followed by numbers denotes a date subsequent to 1883.
Inclusion of the word 'England','Germany','France','Italy' in marks denotes a date after 1891, although some manufacturers added the word slightly before this date. 'Made in England', 'Made in Germany' and so on, denotes a 20th-century date. Use of the words 'Bone China', 'English Bone China', etc., denotes a 20th-century date. Items made in Japan between 1945 and 1953 were required by law to be marked "Made in Occupied Japan." Most European antique and vintage china and porcelain pieces are well marked as to manufacturer whereas U.S makers were hit and miss on marking their pieces.
If your pieces are unmarked, it may be impossible to ever accurately identify the maker. You will have to search for the pattern and see if you can match your pattern to one that has been identified. The library or bookstore may be your best bet although more and more information is on the Internet every day. You could even go to an antique dealer and see what they have to say. Just make sure that when you do that you know that the dealer is true to his or her word and is not telling is a price that would make you sell it to them and then they turn around and sell it for the real price.
Purchased a collection of thimbles, 7 in all, they picture Henry VIII and his six wives, on the back of the thimbles are a few lines depicting. From the description you have given, I'm assuming they are bone or china thimble and that they are the normal thimble shape, I've seen some as the bust or head of the character. I assume the picture you refer to is a decal, little dots when looking thru a magnifying glass. I'm also assuming there is no maker's mark on them, either on the inside of the thimble or on the band.
You did not describe their condition, so I will assume they are in mint, unused condition. If these assumptions are correct then are not Wedgwood or a precious metal. The thimble you have shown me is a modern, Mexican silver thimble. Most examples were made mid-to late 20th Century. It is decorated with applied wirework on the outside. Periodically you will find lettering on the inside of the thimble and this will indicate a maker's mark.
If you do find something that has the similar look to you piece or you think you got the markers mark, period it was made or anything else like that you can always double check your ideas by going be an auction house and having some from there look over your piece and see what they have to say about. You might be right or wrong but at least you can find out more on that piece if you choose to take it to an antique dealer or an auction house.
The registration mark appears as a diamond shaped mark and gives the EARLIEST possible date of manufacturer. These marks were used on porcelain, pottery and china from 1842 through 1883. The purpose of the mark was to show that the design or shape had been registered at the Patent Office in London and was thereby protected from piracy by other manufacturers for a period of three years.
General Rules for dating marks - There are several general rules for dating ceramic marks, attention to which will avoid several common errors. Printed marks incorporating the Royal Arms are a 19th or 20th century date. Printed marks incorporating the name of the pattern are after 1810. Marks incorporating the word 'Limited', or the abbreviations 'Ltd', 'Ld', etc., denote a date after 1861, and most examples are much later. Incorporation of the words 'Trade Mark' in a mark denotes a date subsequent to the Act of 1862. Inclusion of the word 'Royal' in a firm's title or trade name suggests a date in the second half of the 19th century, if not a 20th-century dating. Inclusion of the abbreviation 'R N' (for Registered Number) followed by numbers denotes a date subsequent to 1883.
Inclusion of the word 'England','Germany','France','Italy' in marks denotes a date after 1891, although some manufacturers added the word slightly before this date. 'Made in England', 'Made in Germany' and so on, denotes a 20th-century date. Use of the words 'Bone China', 'English Bone China', etc., denotes a 20th-century date. Items made in Japan between 1945 and 1953 were required by law to be marked "Made in Occupied Japan." Most European antique and vintage china and porcelain pieces are well marked as to manufacturer whereas U.S makers were hit and miss on marking their pieces.
If your pieces are unmarked, it may be impossible to ever accurately identify the maker. You will have to search for the pattern and see if you can match your pattern to one that has been identified. The library or bookstore may be your best bet although more and more information is on the Internet every day. You could even go to an antique dealer and see what they have to say. Just make sure that when you do that you know that the dealer is true to his or her word and is not telling is a price that would make you sell it to them and then they turn around and sell it for the real price.
Purchased a collection of thimbles, 7 in all, they picture Henry VIII and his six wives, on the back of the thimbles are a few lines depicting. From the description you have given, I'm assuming they are bone or china thimble and that they are the normal thimble shape, I've seen some as the bust or head of the character. I assume the picture you refer to is a decal, little dots when looking thru a magnifying glass. I'm also assuming there is no maker's mark on them, either on the inside of the thimble or on the band.
You did not describe their condition, so I will assume they are in mint, unused condition. If these assumptions are correct then are not Wedgwood or a precious metal. The thimble you have shown me is a modern, Mexican silver thimble. Most examples were made mid-to late 20th Century. It is decorated with applied wirework on the outside. Periodically you will find lettering on the inside of the thimble and this will indicate a maker's mark.
If you do find something that has the similar look to you piece or you think you got the markers mark, period it was made or anything else like that you can always double check your ideas by going be an auction house and having some from there look over your piece and see what they have to say about. You might be right or wrong but at least you can find out more on that piece if you choose to take it to an antique dealer or an auction house.
What You Should Know About McCoy Pottery
McCoy pottery is one of the most important and known pottery makers in the US; it was established at the beginning of the 20th century and changed its name to McCoy - Brush in 1925. McCoy items are considered to be among the most valuable collectibles one can have; in some cases, the prices of the McCoy items reach extremely high prices at auctions or sale for high prices in retail and antique shops.
The trademark of the McCoy Pottery is recognised all over the world; due to the high appreciation of its quality though, it has been copied and abused several times. A few years ago the McCoy mark was used on reproductions of the original items and especially the jars. Many inexpensive replicas hit the markets, causing a serious financial damage to the company, which started a long legal fight so as to protect its name and ceramics. The McCoy jars were introduced in 1930 and since then they have been the only figural jars ever available in the markets. Today though, the McCoy pottery company is not in business anymore, a fact that makes the original pottery even more important and unique.
If you are among those who want to collect pottery items you can find a vast variety of them available in several shops and antique collections; there are also many shops online that sell the authentic McCoy collectibles. The authentic ones come with verification and mark of authenticity, as all the items got a unique number when manufactured. There are also many resources for the McCoy products, including several associations and journals.
If you are one of the collectors of vintage and unique items, whether it is vintage jewellery or pottery, you should always try to educate yourself on the best sources of original products, as there are many scams today, especially online.
The trademark of the McCoy Pottery is recognised all over the world; due to the high appreciation of its quality though, it has been copied and abused several times. A few years ago the McCoy mark was used on reproductions of the original items and especially the jars. Many inexpensive replicas hit the markets, causing a serious financial damage to the company, which started a long legal fight so as to protect its name and ceramics. The McCoy jars were introduced in 1930 and since then they have been the only figural jars ever available in the markets. Today though, the McCoy pottery company is not in business anymore, a fact that makes the original pottery even more important and unique.
If you are among those who want to collect pottery items you can find a vast variety of them available in several shops and antique collections; there are also many shops online that sell the authentic McCoy collectibles. The authentic ones come with verification and mark of authenticity, as all the items got a unique number when manufactured. There are also many resources for the McCoy products, including several associations and journals.
If you are one of the collectors of vintage and unique items, whether it is vintage jewellery or pottery, you should always try to educate yourself on the best sources of original products, as there are many scams today, especially online.
Sturat is article marketer, copywriter and enjoys writing on topics like Mccoy Pottery and Vintage Jewelry. For more information on these topics , please visit us.
Basic Guide to Collecting Antique Ceramics - Part 11
What is a pot made of? This is one of the basic questions to answer when you are looking at a piece of ceramics.
The basic types of ceramics can be categorised as:
Porcelain ( Made with the inclusion of China Clay in the body). It is finer and more translucent than pottery. Pots tend to be lighter weight and more delicate. The easiest distinction is to shine a light into a pot. If you can see the light though it it is most likely to be Porcelain.There are two main types:
Hard Paste ( most porcelain found today). This is used for most " China" produced in Britain examples of which can be found from many of the best manufacturessuch as Wedgwood and Royal Doulton. A chipped piececan have a shell like edge which helps to determine that the piece is porcelain.
Soft Paste ( early European porcelain)
Pottery. Thicker walled and more solid than porcelain. Light does not show through a pottery body. Pottery needs to be glazed before use with liquids as it is porous in its unglazed state. The main types are:
Earthenware. Lightly fired and unglazed it is known as "Terracotta". Earthenware pots were theearliest type of pots produced in Britain. The clay is quite coarse. For exampleDevon and Cornwallmotto ware are made of Earthenware. This is quite a soft body and chips easily.
Stoneware ( fired at a very high temperature) is harder and more durable than Earthenware. A good example of Stoneware used today can be seen in Denby Pottery.
The basic types of ceramics can be categorised as:
Porcelain ( Made with the inclusion of China Clay in the body). It is finer and more translucent than pottery. Pots tend to be lighter weight and more delicate. The easiest distinction is to shine a light into a pot. If you can see the light though it it is most likely to be Porcelain.There are two main types:
Hard Paste ( most porcelain found today). This is used for most " China" produced in Britain examples of which can be found from many of the best manufacturessuch as Wedgwood and Royal Doulton. A chipped piececan have a shell like edge which helps to determine that the piece is porcelain.
Soft Paste ( early European porcelain)
Pottery. Thicker walled and more solid than porcelain. Light does not show through a pottery body. Pottery needs to be glazed before use with liquids as it is porous in its unglazed state. The main types are:
Earthenware. Lightly fired and unglazed it is known as "Terracotta". Earthenware pots were theearliest type of pots produced in Britain. The clay is quite coarse. For exampleDevon and Cornwallmotto ware are made of Earthenware. This is quite a soft body and chips easily.
Stoneware ( fired at a very high temperature) is harder and more durable than Earthenware. A good example of Stoneware used today can be seen in Denby Pottery.
Anne Haile - Antiques Dealer and Writer. You can contact me via my Antiques Shop and read more at my Antiques Blog.
Antique Lamps - A Renaissance Man
Ulysses Cantagalli, is recognised today as a major 19th century Italian potter. Hardly anything is known about him prior to 1878 when he is recorded as taking over theÂfamily factory in Florence. Florence, of course, was the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance and Cantagalli's early products reflect this Renaissance artistic style. The style, at the time, was in great demand, especially in England and English speaking countries in general. An outstanding contribution to Cantagalli’s international success was his friendship with William de Morgan, Britain’s most talented and admired pottery and tile designer of the day. de MorganÂhadÂcaptured the mood of the times and this, without doubt, was of greatest benefit to Cantagalli. de Morgan greatly admiredÂCantagalli's art andÂintroduced him to many influential collectors in England and theÂUS. ÂHe encouraged him to participate in international exhibitions and in a short time Cantagalli’s worksÂbecame highly regarded with his workÂstill popular asÂcollector’s items. The Antique & Vintage Table Lamp Co illustrate a Cantagalli table lamp from their current collection.  A very decorative, 19th century, Italian majolica lamp from the Florentine workshop of Ulysses Cantagalli. The urn shaped lamp in Italian renaissance style, with a dome shaped cover, the cover with a minaret finial. The urn on a circular base and socle, standing on a square shaped base. The lamp beautifully decorated in monochrome, pastel blue enamel. The urn cover, rim and base with a lambrequin border. The principal subject, a renaissance scholar with his dog. The urn sides with moulded, lion head ring grips. The figure subject deftly drawn in a very free flowing manner. The lamp on a square, custom made base, lacquered in Royal Blue. Of note, due to the ceramic firing technology of the day, the urn had slightly “sagged†in the kiln, hence the irregular angle of the majolica square base. Circa 1880 ÂÂÂÂÂÂOverall height (including shade) 23"/58.5cm Cantagalli devoted his artistic energy to the understanding of the techniques and the designs of the old masters from Gubbio, Deruta, Urbino and other important ItalianÂceramic centres. He was fascinated by the Italian pottery made during the Renaissance,ÂandÂuncoveredÂa natural talent which made itÂeasy for him to revive the old decorativeÂtechniques. Further, CantagalliÂwas also a very intuitive businessman and he knew that Renaissance style pottery was very popular at the time. Ulysses Cantagalli was an outstanding ceramicist, whose original works areÂdisplayed in many privateÂand important public museumÂcollections including the Bargello in Florence, the Museo Stibbert also in Florence andÂthe Victoria & Albert Museum in London. After a long and successful life, Cantagalli died in 1901. His wife and daughter continued to operate the factory in Florence until 1934 when the factory was sold to the formerÂartistic director, Amerigo Menegatti. The factory struggled through Italy's disastrous involvement with the second world war, finally closing in 1985. The Antique & Vintage Table Lamp Co specialise in antiqueÂlamp lighting with an on-line range of over 100 unique, antique and vintage table lamps on view. Lamps are shipped ready wired for the US,Âthe UK and Australia. For more information you are invited to visit their web site at -: www.antiquelampshop.com © The Antique & Vintage Table Lamp Co 2009 Â
Maurice Robertson, principal of The Antique and Vintage Table Lamp Co , has had a lifetime's association with antique porcelain and pottery,with his commercial experience spaning a period of 40 years,including as a valuer to the Australian Government's Incentive to the Arts Scheme. His long experience with antique ceramics and glass also includes dealing with leading museums and numerous international private collections. He has extended his ceramics expertise into the quality table lamps seen on the company's site, he is well known to local and international interior designers who have included many of his table lamps in their projects and has also supplied items of national interest to the official Sydney residence of the Australian Prime Minister.
Antique Lamps - A Bat Printed Staffordshire Lamp
The invention of transfer printing on porcelain and pottery was, without doubt, one of the most important innovations in the development of the ceramic industry. The honor of this development goes to the English engraver, Robert Hancock, born in Birmingham (1730-1817). We first meet Robert, recorded as a copper plate engraver at York House, at Battersea’s enamel works in London. ÂHere, beautiful little copper boxes were made for the English 18th century luxury market and quite costly objects of vertu, the so-called bijouterie, scent bottles, little snuff boxes and practical wares, such as boxes to contain sewing implements, toothpicks, trays to hold pens, canisters for tea and sugar and even candlesticks, designed to imitated expensive silver pieces. In 1756 the Battersea factory closed and we next find Robert at the Worcester porcelain factory in the same year. Robert Hancock had obviously taken his knowledge and expertise to the factory management, under the direction of Dr John Wall. The management was highly impressed with the idea of this rapid decoration technique! Since the opening of the factory in 1751, porcelain painting had been a laborious and expensive process, undertaken by painters with coloured powdered enamels, mixed with lavender oil and brushes. Robert was able to teach his printing skills and the process was soon mastered with the first, famous, copper plate engraved, black transfer print being produced in 1757. The subject being Frederick the Great, King of Prussia, ally and hero of the seven years war. Transfer printing as developed at Battersea, began with the unique skill of the copper plate engraver, who deeply engraved, with a fine sharp steel, the desired design. The design was engraved in reverse!, allowing the final print to appear “right way aroundâ€. ÂPigment was then added, often mixed with oil and heated to allow the colour to run deeper into the copper plate engravings, the excess ink then wiped away with a palette knife. ÂThe copper plate, after being cleaned off with a cloth was then covered with a sheet of tissue which was dampened and pressed onto the plate. ÂNext, the tissue was gently lifted from the plate and set carefully onto the shape to be printed. As the tissue was deftly lifted away, the design was left behind. This early printing style left the print on top of the glazed item, which was then fired to finally set the print onto the glazed surface. As the 18th century turned into the early 19th century, new ceramic printing techniques were developed, to not only improve the technique, but make it faster, time is money! ÂThe great name at this point is Josiah Spode who is credited with the introduction of under glaze blue transfer printing into Staffordshire, during 1781-84. During the early 1800's, the tissue was replaced by a sheet of paper, or sometimes fabric. With a layer of glue applied, this could easily be cut and shaped to fit around curved objects such as dishes and teapots. This is known as the “bat†print and gives the process its alternative name “bat printingâ€. The inked bat was then placed on the ceramic object and an impression left, leaving the print adhering to the shape. The item was then dipped into the glaze and returned to the kiln for the glost, or, low firing. The glue bats were reusable, plus they conformed better to curved surfaces. ÂCobalt blue, under glaze transfer printing became a standard of the Staffordshire pottery industry. Men like Josiah Spode, Wedgwood, Thomas Minton and others, were all entrepreneurial types and leading figures of the great Staffordshire ceramic industry. While sharing amicable business relationships, each kept an eye on the market! ÂÂIt was at this time that large export markets were opening or expanding in North America, Europe, and India where consumers sought elegant, matched sets of wares. The Antique and Vintage Table Lamp Co illustrate a charming little English, Staffordshire, pottery accent lamp. The lamp with a cream coloured glaze and very finely printed in sepia with two “named viewsâ€. The front of the lamp with “Abbotsford, Selkirkshire, Scotlandâ€, the reverse side printed with, “Chatsworth Derbyshireâ€. The lamp with elaborately modelled, silver shaped handles. The neck of the lamp delicately gilded with a formal motif. The rim and circular lamp base gilded, the gilding in very fine condition. The lamp seated on a custom made, polished, maple wood base. The custom-made lamp cap of gold plated bronze. Circa 1840 ÂÂÂÂÂÂOverall height (including shade) 17"/43cm  The Antique & Vintage Table Lamp Co specialise in antique table lamp lighting with an on line range of over 100 unique, antique and vintage table lamps on view. Lamps are shipped ready wired for the U.S, the U.K and Australia. For more information you are invited to visit their web site at:-  www.antiquelampshop.com
Maurice Robertson, principal of The Antique and Vintage Table Lamp Co , has had a lifetime's association with antique porcelain and pottery,with his commercial experience spaning a period of 40 years,including as a valuer to the Australian Government's Incentive to the Arts Scheme. His long experience with antique ceramics and glass also includes dealing with leading museums and numerous international private collections. He has extended his ceramics expertise into the quality table lamps seen on the company's site, he is well known to local and international interior designers who have included many of his table lamps in their projects and has also supplied items of national interest to the official Sydney residence of the Australian Prime Minister.
Antiques - Tips on How You Should Care for Them
For many antique collectors the taking care of their collection is very important to them. For some who have inherited a lovely collection of heirlooms, yet do not have any idea of how to look after them or even keeping up with the collection they already have as well as they should. By caring for these items correctly they will benefit from them in the future, as not only can they be passed on to their loved ones or they can be sold at a higher value in the future if so wished.
Below it provided some tips for which you should be able to care for your antiques and collectibles. There are many sites where you should be able to obtain more detailed information on how to look after your priceless treasures.
Firstly, we will look at caring for glass, porcelain or pottery antiques. Any items like these should be washed individually in a wash basin to prevent any damage (such as chipping). You should only ever wash them in warm water never hot or cold and with a gentle cleaner using a soft bristled brush. One thing you should NEVER do is put your antique glass, pottery or porcelain in a dishwasher (the extreme heat and detergent used can be extremely harmful). Also always allow each item to dry naturally and do not use a cloth on them to dry them.
Next we need to consider how you should display and store your collection. If you have a home where there are young children or generally lots of visitors then make sure that your glass, pottery and porcelain collections are kept in a safe place (cabinet) well away from the main flow of traffic in the house. Do not put the collection on shelves on walls, it only takes one small vibration to occur whether some one accidentally knocks against the shelf or some one knocks against the wall the shelf is on could mean the loss of your collection.
Now we will look at how to look after antique rugs and textiles. Any rugs or textiles that you have will need specialist care when either moving, storing or cleaning them. It is quite easy to cause damage (such as tearing) to occur when you move such items as the material they are made from is very delicate and so you make sure you move them slowly and carefully. If you must roll up an antique rug then ensure that the pile of the rug is facing outwards as this will prevent any damage or crushing to the item. Any antique garments that you have should at all times be hung on sturdy hangers and then covered in white cotton or rolled up using an acid free paper and then closed at either end and tied securely.
You can vacuum rugs and textiles, but only use a very low setting and always take extra care when you are vacuuming any textiles as you do not want to end up the suction being strong and causing fibers to be pulled apart. If you do happen to spill anything on the rug, then put white paper towels underneath the rug and above where the spill has occurred and replace them until no more liquid comes out. Should it be required, then contact an expert who will be able to clean it correctly. Also remember to keep an eye on the rug or textile and avoid it being exposed directly to either sun or humidity.
If you happened to have collected antique or collectible furniture you will need to dust it usually only a soft lint free cloth. Any wooden antique furniture that you have should be waxed usually only a quality bees wax and where at all possible avoid placing any furnishings in bright light or in to rooms which experience extreme changes in temperature or humidity as they will also cause damage. When moving antique furniture carry it out with extreme care never dragging, but always ensure that the furniture is lifted.
Many people find that having a valuable collection of either antiques or collectibles is a privilege and by ensuring that they take proper care of them will not only help to increase their value but it also means that they can be passed down from generation to generation.
Allison Thompson webmaster of this and several other sites after becoming a work at home mum who now lives in Spain. If you should require any further information please go to http://www.antiqueadventures.info
Below it provided some tips for which you should be able to care for your antiques and collectibles. There are many sites where you should be able to obtain more detailed information on how to look after your priceless treasures.
Firstly, we will look at caring for glass, porcelain or pottery antiques. Any items like these should be washed individually in a wash basin to prevent any damage (such as chipping). You should only ever wash them in warm water never hot or cold and with a gentle cleaner using a soft bristled brush. One thing you should NEVER do is put your antique glass, pottery or porcelain in a dishwasher (the extreme heat and detergent used can be extremely harmful). Also always allow each item to dry naturally and do not use a cloth on them to dry them.
Next we need to consider how you should display and store your collection. If you have a home where there are young children or generally lots of visitors then make sure that your glass, pottery and porcelain collections are kept in a safe place (cabinet) well away from the main flow of traffic in the house. Do not put the collection on shelves on walls, it only takes one small vibration to occur whether some one accidentally knocks against the shelf or some one knocks against the wall the shelf is on could mean the loss of your collection.
Now we will look at how to look after antique rugs and textiles. Any rugs or textiles that you have will need specialist care when either moving, storing or cleaning them. It is quite easy to cause damage (such as tearing) to occur when you move such items as the material they are made from is very delicate and so you make sure you move them slowly and carefully. If you must roll up an antique rug then ensure that the pile of the rug is facing outwards as this will prevent any damage or crushing to the item. Any antique garments that you have should at all times be hung on sturdy hangers and then covered in white cotton or rolled up using an acid free paper and then closed at either end and tied securely.
You can vacuum rugs and textiles, but only use a very low setting and always take extra care when you are vacuuming any textiles as you do not want to end up the suction being strong and causing fibers to be pulled apart. If you do happen to spill anything on the rug, then put white paper towels underneath the rug and above where the spill has occurred and replace them until no more liquid comes out. Should it be required, then contact an expert who will be able to clean it correctly. Also remember to keep an eye on the rug or textile and avoid it being exposed directly to either sun or humidity.
If you happened to have collected antique or collectible furniture you will need to dust it usually only a soft lint free cloth. Any wooden antique furniture that you have should be waxed usually only a quality bees wax and where at all possible avoid placing any furnishings in bright light or in to rooms which experience extreme changes in temperature or humidity as they will also cause damage. When moving antique furniture carry it out with extreme care never dragging, but always ensure that the furniture is lifted.
Many people find that having a valuable collection of either antiques or collectibles is a privilege and by ensuring that they take proper care of them will not only help to increase their value but it also means that they can be passed down from generation to generation.
Allison Thompson webmaster of this and several other sites after becoming a work at home mum who now lives in Spain. If you should require any further information please go to http://www.antiqueadventures.info
Red Wing Pottery Makes Its Fiction Debut
The novel, Shades of Darkness, Shades of Grace is set in Minnesota among the states many natural wonders, rich history, and eclectic towns providing a vivid backdrop against which the story unfolds. One of the key plot points involves Red Wing Pottery, manufactured in the Minnesota town of the same name for nearly 100 years.
The matriarch of the Pierson family, Beverly, collects Red Wing Pottery and has gone into the antique business opening Past Treasures Antiques in downtown Wayzata, Minnesota. Red Wing had its origins in the rich clay discovered as the area was being settled in the 1860s. Over nearly 90 years the company would produce salt glaze pottery, utilitarian stoneware, art pottery, cookie jars, and over 100 patterns of hand-painted ceramic dinnerware. Much of the stoneware was marked with a distinctive red wing on the front, in later years the art pottery and dinnerware was stamped with a red wing on the bottom.
In the novel, Beverly and Bill Pierson give their son Paul and his bride Pamela, a blue tinted lily bowl and pitcher, a stunning example of Red Wing artistry. Officially advertised as "Ewers and Basins in blue tint" - the set was offered in the 1920s and 30s along with hundreds of other stoneware items for the household and farm. Because few of these gorgeous sets survived intact, in mint condition they are extremely valuable.
As Kay, the narrator of the story notes, Red Wing Pottery is an integral part of Minnesota's history. But the pottery also holds an important place within the history of America and the pottery industry, as in the early 20th Century the company was the largest manufacturer of pottery in the United States. Other Red Wing pieces of note mentioned in the book include Nokomis vases that were part of the art pottery line during the 1930s; cherry band pitchers which were manufactured during the same time period as the lily pitcher and basin; and cookie jars produced until the plant's closing.
Today, Red Wing Pottery is highly sought after by collectors and is often referred to as "the Cadillac of pottery." Ten years after the plant closed in 1967, a group interested in collecting the pottery for both its beauty and historic significance founded the Red Wing Collector's Society. Every year during the second week in July, thousands of Red Wing collectors from across the U.S. converge on the city of Red Wing for their annual convention, where members buy, sell, barter, and trade pieces of the pottery. Highlights of the Red Wing Convention include auctions, where mint condition salt glaze pottery, unusual or one-of-a-kind pieces can sell for thousands of dollars.
Want to learn more about Red Wing Pottery? There are numerous web sites devoted to the history, preservation, and selling of Red Wing and some of the best are listed below. Another good place to shop for Red Wing is on eBay, where more than a few Red Wing aficionados like Beverly Pierson have caught the collecting bug and developed spectacular collections of the pottery.
Resources:
Red Wing Collector's Society - Founded in 1977, the Society is a great place to learn more about the pottery and its lasting legacy.
Red Wing Collector's Society Foundation - This non-profit foundation's mission is to preserve the history of Red Wing Pottery. The RWCS Foundation maintains a museum in Red Wing, MN and provides educational materials and scholarships.
Red Wing Dinnerware - Todd Hintz and his wife Ivy Loughborough are avid collectors of Red Wing Dinnerware and have designed an extensive web site on the topic. Every pattern is represented.
Schleich Red Wing Pottery Museum - In October, 2001, Jerry and Louise Schleich opened this one-of-a-kind museum in their hometown of Lincoln, NE. Since then, hundreds of visitors from around the world have viewed the collection. Over 5,000 pieces on display chronicle the history of Red Wing Pottery.
The matriarch of the Pierson family, Beverly, collects Red Wing Pottery and has gone into the antique business opening Past Treasures Antiques in downtown Wayzata, Minnesota. Red Wing had its origins in the rich clay discovered as the area was being settled in the 1860s. Over nearly 90 years the company would produce salt glaze pottery, utilitarian stoneware, art pottery, cookie jars, and over 100 patterns of hand-painted ceramic dinnerware. Much of the stoneware was marked with a distinctive red wing on the front, in later years the art pottery and dinnerware was stamped with a red wing on the bottom.
In the novel, Beverly and Bill Pierson give their son Paul and his bride Pamela, a blue tinted lily bowl and pitcher, a stunning example of Red Wing artistry. Officially advertised as "Ewers and Basins in blue tint" - the set was offered in the 1920s and 30s along with hundreds of other stoneware items for the household and farm. Because few of these gorgeous sets survived intact, in mint condition they are extremely valuable.
As Kay, the narrator of the story notes, Red Wing Pottery is an integral part of Minnesota's history. But the pottery also holds an important place within the history of America and the pottery industry, as in the early 20th Century the company was the largest manufacturer of pottery in the United States. Other Red Wing pieces of note mentioned in the book include Nokomis vases that were part of the art pottery line during the 1930s; cherry band pitchers which were manufactured during the same time period as the lily pitcher and basin; and cookie jars produced until the plant's closing.
Today, Red Wing Pottery is highly sought after by collectors and is often referred to as "the Cadillac of pottery." Ten years after the plant closed in 1967, a group interested in collecting the pottery for both its beauty and historic significance founded the Red Wing Collector's Society. Every year during the second week in July, thousands of Red Wing collectors from across the U.S. converge on the city of Red Wing for their annual convention, where members buy, sell, barter, and trade pieces of the pottery. Highlights of the Red Wing Convention include auctions, where mint condition salt glaze pottery, unusual or one-of-a-kind pieces can sell for thousands of dollars.
Want to learn more about Red Wing Pottery? There are numerous web sites devoted to the history, preservation, and selling of Red Wing and some of the best are listed below. Another good place to shop for Red Wing is on eBay, where more than a few Red Wing aficionados like Beverly Pierson have caught the collecting bug and developed spectacular collections of the pottery.
Resources:
Red Wing Collector's Society - Founded in 1977, the Society is a great place to learn more about the pottery and its lasting legacy.
Red Wing Collector's Society Foundation - This non-profit foundation's mission is to preserve the history of Red Wing Pottery. The RWCS Foundation maintains a museum in Red Wing, MN and provides educational materials and scholarships.
Red Wing Dinnerware - Todd Hintz and his wife Ivy Loughborough are avid collectors of Red Wing Dinnerware and have designed an extensive web site on the topic. Every pattern is represented.
Schleich Red Wing Pottery Museum - In October, 2001, Jerry and Louise Schleich opened this one-of-a-kind museum in their hometown of Lincoln, NE. Since then, hundreds of visitors from around the world have viewed the collection. Over 5,000 pieces on display chronicle the history of Red Wing Pottery.
Satsuma Pottery
The style of pottery known as Satsuma was first created on the southern island of Japan in the later stages of the 19th century. It continued to be made through to the early 1920s but there have been many historic finds and records in the same area that proves that there were people making earthenware pottery there as far back as the 16th century. The term Satsuma is derived from the name of the area in Japan where these pottery items were made.
The hallmark signs of a piece of pottery made in the Satsuma style or from that time period is that it is of a creamy or off white and sometime beige complexion. The pottery is then hand painted in amazing, intricate designs featuring scenes from japanese life, animals, flowers or landscapes. The design is then covered with a thin translucent glaze which deliberately ends up with a crackled finish. These three things make the Satsuma pottery stand out among other pieces from the same era.
The pottery made by the artisans of the satsuma area became so sought after and popular that it was heavily copied all over the world. Many of the items of pottery you find from this region were also mass produced and therefore finding that antique needle in haystack can prove difficult. Many items of pottery and porcelain ware were copied and produced overseas in China and were then marked as SATSUMA.
The decoration of the pottery from the Satsuma region is truly amazing. Hand painted with brightly colored enamels, gold and silver and using various techniques such as raising the enamel slightly to give an added effect to the work. The images are incredibly detailed and minute in their design and dimensions. The Satsuma vases for example can range from being heavily decorated all over with dragons or full landscapes complete with animals, rivers and trees to a more simplistic image of Japanese society of notable people from that area or time.
Although the cracking of the glaze makes the pottery look old and antique, it was actually done that way on purpose. The cracks, called Kannyu, were part of the design ideal of the makers and forms part of the style of the pieces. The glaze was applied in thin layers and when heated sufficiently and cooled quickly, resulted in the small hairline fractures that cover the entire pieces.
Many different style of satsuma pottery are available. Vases, bowls, cups and figures all feature the intricate artistry of the maker and the tell tale signs of glorious antiques from years gone by.
The hallmark signs of a piece of pottery made in the Satsuma style or from that time period is that it is of a creamy or off white and sometime beige complexion. The pottery is then hand painted in amazing, intricate designs featuring scenes from japanese life, animals, flowers or landscapes. The design is then covered with a thin translucent glaze which deliberately ends up with a crackled finish. These three things make the Satsuma pottery stand out among other pieces from the same era.
The pottery made by the artisans of the satsuma area became so sought after and popular that it was heavily copied all over the world. Many of the items of pottery you find from this region were also mass produced and therefore finding that antique needle in haystack can prove difficult. Many items of pottery and porcelain ware were copied and produced overseas in China and were then marked as SATSUMA.
The decoration of the pottery from the Satsuma region is truly amazing. Hand painted with brightly colored enamels, gold and silver and using various techniques such as raising the enamel slightly to give an added effect to the work. The images are incredibly detailed and minute in their design and dimensions. The Satsuma vases for example can range from being heavily decorated all over with dragons or full landscapes complete with animals, rivers and trees to a more simplistic image of Japanese society of notable people from that area or time.
Although the cracking of the glaze makes the pottery look old and antique, it was actually done that way on purpose. The cracks, called Kannyu, were part of the design ideal of the makers and forms part of the style of the pieces. The glaze was applied in thin layers and when heated sufficiently and cooled quickly, resulted in the small hairline fractures that cover the entire pieces.
Many different style of satsuma pottery are available. Vases, bowls, cups and figures all feature the intricate artistry of the maker and the tell tale signs of glorious antiques from years gone by.
Visit the authors website where you can get more information regarding Satsuma Pottery and find where and when to buy these items at auction.
What Is Art Pottery?
We all know what pottery is, so the phrase "Art Pottery" refers to any pottery that is decorative, stylish, attractive or even beautiful... a work of art... Art Pottery!
Obviously "art" is open to interpretation, but since there is so much to choose from, anyone can fall in love with some form of art pottery. A favorite of many is Roseville, also others such as McCoy and Weller are very desirable and quite popular. There are over fifty categories of pottery on eBay alone with thousands of pieces to view at any given time. With so much diversity there is enough Art Pottery for everyone.
Art pottery is designed not only for beauty but also functionality. This makes art pottery a welcomed addition to any home. You can get matching pieces with the same design so as to emphasize a specific theme or color throughout your home. For example, Roseville is renown for its floral themes and since everyone likes flowers it can be an impressive addition to your home.
Many pottery manufacturers are no longer in business and so their pieces are valuable to collect. Some are considered antiques and should be displayed only. Some pottery companies are still manufacturing after over a century of business. Some relatively new pottery companies are producing interesting work of great quality with a more modern look. Whatever your taste you will be able to find something to fit your fancy.
It used to be that the only way you could expose yourself to Art Pottery, so as to learn about what is out there and its value, was by visiting antique shops, yard sales and purchasing books on the the subject of Art Pottery or going to retailers who stock one brand or another. Now learning and acquiring is made easy with the Internet and sites like eBay. Just the thousands of images of Art Pottery alone, found on the Internet, add up to quite an education. By researching Internet dealers and auction sites you can get a good idea of what various pieces of Art Pottery are worth. You are also able to view Art Pottery from all over the world and even acquire some if you like.
Collecting and displaying Art Pottery can be a very satisfying hobby and can really beautify your home. There is quite a bit of history behind some of the companies who used to manufacture Art Pottery, their techniques and the artist they hired to design their lines. When this is researched it gives more value to the Art Pottery you display. I have seen people of all ages and backgrounds literally intrigued when first introduced to a piece of art pottery on display in a home. The combination of beauty and history along with the designers original functionality can be quite a topic for conversation.
You can find beautiful and sometimes rare art pottery pieces in the most unlikely places.Take a look around, who knows, you may find the next rare undiscovered piece of Art Pottery!
Robert E Hemken Jr If you would like to browse thousands of pieces of Art Pottery, view quality pictures and get an idea of values visit the author of What is Art Pottery | MyArtPottery site today!
Obviously "art" is open to interpretation, but since there is so much to choose from, anyone can fall in love with some form of art pottery. A favorite of many is Roseville, also others such as McCoy and Weller are very desirable and quite popular. There are over fifty categories of pottery on eBay alone with thousands of pieces to view at any given time. With so much diversity there is enough Art Pottery for everyone.
Art pottery is designed not only for beauty but also functionality. This makes art pottery a welcomed addition to any home. You can get matching pieces with the same design so as to emphasize a specific theme or color throughout your home. For example, Roseville is renown for its floral themes and since everyone likes flowers it can be an impressive addition to your home.
Many pottery manufacturers are no longer in business and so their pieces are valuable to collect. Some are considered antiques and should be displayed only. Some pottery companies are still manufacturing after over a century of business. Some relatively new pottery companies are producing interesting work of great quality with a more modern look. Whatever your taste you will be able to find something to fit your fancy.
It used to be that the only way you could expose yourself to Art Pottery, so as to learn about what is out there and its value, was by visiting antique shops, yard sales and purchasing books on the the subject of Art Pottery or going to retailers who stock one brand or another. Now learning and acquiring is made easy with the Internet and sites like eBay. Just the thousands of images of Art Pottery alone, found on the Internet, add up to quite an education. By researching Internet dealers and auction sites you can get a good idea of what various pieces of Art Pottery are worth. You are also able to view Art Pottery from all over the world and even acquire some if you like.
Collecting and displaying Art Pottery can be a very satisfying hobby and can really beautify your home. There is quite a bit of history behind some of the companies who used to manufacture Art Pottery, their techniques and the artist they hired to design their lines. When this is researched it gives more value to the Art Pottery you display. I have seen people of all ages and backgrounds literally intrigued when first introduced to a piece of art pottery on display in a home. The combination of beauty and history along with the designers original functionality can be quite a topic for conversation.
You can find beautiful and sometimes rare art pottery pieces in the most unlikely places.Take a look around, who knows, you may find the next rare undiscovered piece of Art Pottery!
Robert E Hemken Jr If you would like to browse thousands of pieces of Art Pottery, view quality pictures and get an idea of values visit the author of What is Art Pottery | MyArtPottery site today!
Antique China Repairs
Valuable antique pottery - such as Meissen, Svres and Chelsea (which date from the 18th century) - is too rare and delicate to be restored by anyone other than an expert. However, many other pieces of antique china, which probably have more charm than value, can be restored by anyone prepared to take the time.Wash china in warm soapy water, then rinse and dry. Most domestic stains can be shifted by, rubbing with bicarbonate of soda or common salt. Grease and dust collects in cracks. Bleach with cotton wool pads soaked in hydrogen peroxide. Coarse antique china is porous and often stains badly, but it can be cleaned by soaking for up to a week in neat domestic bleach. In some cases, old joins may have to be taken apart. To soften glue, soak in boiling water and detergent. Methylated spirits, amyl acetate and acetone are other softeners that can be tried, but remember that complete immersion softens all joints. In the last resort, pick away at old adhesive with a needle.Broken surfaces must be clean and fit exactly or they will not join properly. Wipe with a piece of silk dipped in methylated spirits. Silk will not leave lint on jagged edges. Put the thinnest possible coat of epoxy resin on each surface and press together. Remove any surplus adhesive before it dries, with a watercolour brush dipped in methylated spirits. Avoid touching the actual crack: any surplus on that must be removed by breaking the surface with fine glass-paper then by cutting it away with a razor blade. To make a really good join of smooth surfaces, such as those on antique plates or cups, apply pressure by clamping or putting weight on where possible, or by binding with a 1 in. (40mm) wide brown paper gummed strip (but not self-adhesive tape). Gummed strips shrink as they dry and exert tension. Put the strips that are wet, but not dripping, at right angles across the join: it is pointless to fix a strip along the line of the join. When the join has set, soak off the strips and remove the surplus adhesive with glass-paper and a razor blade.To repair an antique figure, bury it in a bowl of sand, with the broken surface just protruding and horizontal. Set it up so that the broken piece balances perfectly on its matching surface without adhesive. Glue it and keep checking to make sure that nothing slips. When the adhesive has set, remove any surplus along the join with fine glass-paper and a razor blade.Chips can be filled with a mixture of epoxy resin and finely powdered chalk, called whiting. Missing parts on antique ornamental pieces can be replaced by modelling a new part out of epoxy resin filler. If the missing part - of a plate, for example - is flat, make a backing of a gummed strip. If the surface is curved, back it with dental impression compound, which can be bought from a dental materials supplier or from a dental mechanic. Mix a stiff-dough of epoxy resin with whiting and build it up against the backing. It sticks to the edges and, when dry, resembles unglazed china.If the shape of the missing piece is part of a repetitive pattern, make a mould of a similar unbroken part with dental impression compound. Use this mould to make a new piece with quick drying filler. These pieces have to be cut and filed to fit when dry and stuck into place. Note that large missing pieces have to be cast. Model the missing part in plasticine. Use callipers to check the length and thickness of similar parts. Build up a square of plasticine strips on a sheet of glass. Insert a wooden peg through one side of the square and into the model to hold it horizontally above the glass in the middle of the square. Mix plaster of Paris and water in a bowl, stirring until the mixture resembles a thick cream and, pour into the mould until it is halfway up the model. Leave it to set. Cut two wide grooves in the plaster as locating marks when the two sections are joined. Coat the surfaces of the plaster with silicone grease and, fill the rest of the frame with fresh plaster. When it has set, remove the plasticine wall, ease the two sections apart and take out the model. This leaves a mould in which to cast the new piece with filler.Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Antiques
Antiques - The Modern Day Treasure Hunt
In today's world, everything that's old can be described as antiques and generally speaking that's quite true. A product is considered to be an antique if it is over a hundred years old or is rare enough to have some value. In other words, these are old items that are in limited supply. An antique is something collectible. It may be a piece of antique furniture that you want to collect to enhance the look of a room, or a piece of antique pottery to decorate a corner cupboard, or some antique books, antique camera and photographs, antique jewelry, antique money, antique car, antique clocks, or antique watches that you want to hand down to your grandchildren but the items must be rare enough to be considered an antique. The others are just secondhand goods junk. Most people have a common misconception about an antique: the older they look, the more antique they must be. Appearance has nothing to do with it, just because a piece looks like it came out of grandma's attic does not necessarily mean that it's an antique. The value of an antique is based on demand due to suitability and limited supply.Most people become fascinated in an antique for two reasons; either they have an interest in collecting antique purely for personal enjoyment and are willing to shell out money for antique restoration or they inherited it from a family member. The most common are antique pottery, antique car, antique furniture, antique books, antique camera and photographs, antique clocks, antique money, antique jewelry and antique watches. However they came about it, everyone wants to be sure of one thing that what they buy or inherit will escalate in value as time goes by. That is what antique collection is all about. There are two main principles that apply when collecting an antique: The first is to know everything that you can about the antique that interests you and second is to obtain them at the lowest possible price. Doing so will not only give you satisfaction and enjoyment, but at the same time you will also be assured that your investment will appreciate in value.Some people only developed an interest in antique because they inherited an item or a whole house full of antique from a relative. The dollar signs started to appear and they began their hunt for some antique appraisals and antique auction. But what most failed to consider is that much of what Great Grandmother had is probably just junk, unless she was a seasoned collector who's into antique restoration or an expert in antique appraisals. It's true that people could have bought a piece of furniture to decorate their home a long time ago and that furniture, if it were of fine quality, would now be worth something. But only a professional appraiser can guarantee that, and appraising costs about $100-150 an hour. So if you are keen on bringing you item in an antique auction and contemplating about asking someone how much an item is worth, be prepared to shell out a few bucks for the information. Appraisers charge so much because they shoulder the lion's share for insurance companies and lawyers settling estates. Although appraising is not an exact science, it still requires an appraiser to do lots of research and then prepare a detailed report that's acceptable in a court of law.
Antiques - The Modern Day Treasure Hunt
In today's world, everything that's old can be described as antiques and generally speaking that's quite true. A product is considered to be an antique if it is over a hundred years old or is rare enough to have some value. In other words, these are old items that are in limited supply. An antique is something collectible. It may be a piece of antique furniture that you want to collect to enhance the look of a room, or a piece of antique pottery to decorate a corner cupboard, or some antique books, antique camera and photographs, antique jewelry, antique money, antique car, antique clocks, or antique watches that you want to hand down to your grandchildren but the items must be rare enough to be considered an antique. The others are just secondhand goods junk. Most people have a common misconception about an antique: the older they look, the more antique they must be. Appearance has nothing to do with it, just because a piece looks like it came out of grandma's attic does not necessarily mean that it's an antique. The value of an antique is based on demand due to suitability and limited supply.Most people become fascinated in an antique for two reasons; either they have an interest in collecting antique purely for personal enjoyment and are willing to shell out money for antique restoration or they inherited it from a family member. The most common are antique pottery, antique car, antique furniture, antique books, antique camera and photographs, antique clocks, antique money, antique jewelry and antique watches. However they came about it, everyone wants to be sure of one thing that what they buy or inherit will escalate in value as time goes by. That is what antique collection is all about. There are two main principles that apply when collecting an antique: The first is to know everything that you can about the antique that interests you and second is to obtain them at the lowest possible price. Doing so will not only give you satisfaction and enjoyment, but at the same time you will also be assured that your investment will appreciate in value.Some people only developed an interest in antique because they inherited an item or a whole house full of antique from a relative. The dollar signs started to appear and they began their hunt for some antique appraisals and antique auction. But what most failed to consider is that much of what Great Grandmother had is probably just junk, unless she was a seasoned collector who's into antique restoration or an expert in antique appraisals. It's true that people could have bought a piece of furniture to decorate their home a long time ago and that furniture, if it were of fine quality, would now be worth something. But only a professional appraiser can guarantee that, and appraising costs about $100-150 an hour. So if you are keen on bringing you item in an antique auction and contemplating about asking someone how much an item is worth, be prepared to shell out a few bucks for the information. Appraisers charge so much because they shoulder the lion's share for insurance companies and lawyers settling estates. Although appraising is not an exact science, it still requires an appraiser to do lots of research and then prepare a detailed report that's acceptable in a court of law.
Antiques - The Modern Day Treasure Hunt
In today's world, everything that's old can be described asantiques and generally speaking that's quite true. A product isconsidered to be an antique if it is over a hundred years old oris rare enough to have some value. In other words, these are olditems that are in limited supply. An antique is something collectible. It may be a piece ofantique furniture that you want to collect to enhance the lookof a room, or a piece of antique pottery to decorate a cornercupboard, or some antique books, antique camera and photographs,antique jewelry, antique money, antique car, antique clocks, orantique watches that you want to hand down to your grandchildrenbut the items must be rare enough to be considered an antique.The others are just secondhand goods junk. Most people have acommon misconception about an antique: the older they look, themore antique they must be. Appearance has nothing to do with it,just because a piece looks like it came out of grandma's atticdoes not necessarily mean that it's an antique. The value of anantique is based on demand due to suitability and limited supply.Most people become fascinated in an antique for two reasons;either they have an interest in collecting antique purely forpersonal enjoyment and are willing to shell out money forantique restoration or they inherited it from a family member.The most common are antique pottery, antique car, antiquefurniture, antique books, antique camera and photographs,antique clocks, antique money, antique jewelry and antiquewatches. However they came about it, everyone wants to be sureof one thing that what they buy or inherit will escalate invalue as time goes by. That is what antique collection is allabout. There are two main principles that apply when collecting anantique: The first is to know everything that you can about theantique that interests you and second is to obtain them at thelowest possible price. Doing so will not only give yousatisfaction and enjoyment, but at the same time you will alsobe assured that your investment will appreciate in value.Some people only developed an interest in antique because theyinherited an item or a whole house full of antique from arelative. The dollar signs started to appear and they begantheir hunt for some antique appraisals and antique auction. Butwhat most failed to consider is that much of what GreatGrandmother had is probably just junk, unless she was a seasonedcollector who's into antique restoration or an expert in antiqueappraisals. It's true that people could have bought a piece of furniture todecorate their home a long time ago and that furniture, if itwere of fine quality, would now be worth something. But only aprofessional appraiser can guarantee that, and appraising costsabout $100-150 an hour. So if you are keen on bringing you itemin an antique auction and contemplating about asking someone howmuch an item is worth, be prepared to shell out a few bucks forthe information. Appraisers charge so much because they shoulderthe lion's share for insurance companies and lawyers settlingestates. Although appraising is not an exact science, it stillrequires an appraiser to do lots of research and then prepare adetailed report that's acceptable in a court of law. Thinking about exploring the exciting world of antiques? Joinus and utilize our resources in the treasure hunt for theexquisite. There is no membership required. Use the links belowto get started today:
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